Palermo, Sicily foodie guide: where locals eat and drink

Mercato il Capo – for market grazing

Be mesmerised by the banter of the vendors at Mercato il Capo as you shop for capers from Pantelleria, bread baked in ovens stoked by olive branches, and wild fennel. Stroll the market with a paper cone of snails marinated in olive oil, parsley and garlic, or sfincione (thick pizza topped with tomato sauce, onions and a dusting of caciocavallo cheese).

Via Cappuccinelle; enter at Porta Carini.

Pasticceria Cappello – for Sicilian desserts

Down a run-down lane, Pasticceria Cappello is a temple to Sicilian desserts, going beyond the classic ricotta-filled cannoli, cassata Siciliana and frutta martorana (marzipan pastries); don’t miss a fried, ricotta cream-filled iris and the settestrati, a mini-dessert of chocolate mousse, hazelnut cream and chocolate sponge.

pasticceriacappello.it

Ferro di Cavallo – for a Sicilian trattoria

A typical Palermitano trattoria, Ferro di Cavallo opened its doors in 1944. Within its rustic red walls, at simple wooden tables, enjoy polpette di sarde, pasta con acciughe e mollica and bollito prepared by the Ciminna family.

ferrodicavallopalermo.it

Nino u'Ballerino – for Sicilian sandwiches

A culinary rite of passage in Palermo, visit Nino u’Ballerino to try a pani c’a meusa, a traditional sandwich made with beef spleen and lung sprinkled with ricotta cheese, grated caciocavallo cheese, or a spritz of lemon juice, served on a sesame bun.

ninouballerino.it

Gelateria La Delizia – for gelato brioche buns

Follow local custom and start the day with gelato heaped inside a sweet and soft brioche bun at family-run Gelateria La Delizia. Choose between nut, pastry and fruit flavours; coffee, pistachio and almond are outstanding.

ladeliziagelateria.it

Gagini Social Restaurant – for communal dining

At the Gagini Social Restaurant, local, slow, and seasonal reign. Book a seat at the communal table and chat with fellow diners over the tasting menu, or order the pasta buttons stuffed with Slow Food-blessed Madonie provola cheese and served in chicken broth. The Nebrodi suckling pig cooked with pears, mustard and cabbage is also good.

gaginirestaurant.com

Friggitoria Chiluzzo – for fried food

Queue-up at Friggitoria Chiluzzo for Palermo’s renowned fried snacks. The cart’s specialty is pane panelled – square fritters of chickpea flour topped with potato croquettes and served in a seeded bun. Pair this with traditional meat ragù and pea-stuffed arancini to go.

facebook.com/panineria.chiluzzo

Trattoria da Salvo – for casual seafood grill

Sit at a streetside plastic table at Trattoria da Salvo, in the lively Kalsa quarter, and watch cooks toss whole fresh fish, shrimp and calamari on smoky outdoor barbecues. These are served alongside daily pasta specials but the grilled seafood platter is the dish to order.

Via Torremuzza 19, 00 39 334 335 1329

Where to stay in Palermo

Double rooms at the Hotel Porta Felice cost from €115, room only.

Trust olive: Food writer Gina Tringali divides her her time between Rome, Naples and Sicily, designing gastronomic tours (italyfoodandwinetours.com) and writing (gtfoodandtravel.com)

the team reminisce about their favourite foodie adventures in Italy; plus, editor Laura talks about the recent renaissance of authentic, regional Italian restaurants in the UK

olive magazine podcast ep62 - Gibraltar gastronomy and Italian food adventures