Sonoma County wine: an expert guide and the best bottles to buy

A guide to Sonoma County Wine

If you’re looking to cut back on the booze but not go without altogether, now is a chance to look to wines that might usually be beyond your budget, and drink less but drink better.

California’s Sonoma County is a good place to start. Spanish missionaries first planted grapes here in the early 1800s and a thriving wine industry developed until prohibition in the early 20th century led to most vineyards being pulled out, although some vines still exist here that are more than 100 years old.

The modern wine industry began in the late 20th century and, while California now produces vast quantities of cheap, low-quality wine, the Sonoma region is known for making some really world-class bottles that are more pricey. Land, labour and equipment are very expensive – many producers use costly new French oak barrels for ageing which give the plush toasty, vanilla-scented wines that are so characteristically Californian – and there are strict agricultural and environmental regulations that all add to the costs. In addition, producers are still recovering from catastrophic wildfires in 2020 and 2021 that destroyed huge swathes of vineyards as well as hundreds of homes. Unlike its immediate neighbour, the Napa Valley, Sonoma has a large variety of microclimates and soil types, so is able to produce a wider range of grapes and wine styles. Pinot noirs and chardonnays, particularly from the cool Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast regions, are capable of great elegance and complexity, while warmer inland areas such as the Alexander Valley are known for their robust wines made from cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel (also known as primitivo) that tend to be heavily oaked and high in alcohol, although there is a welcome trend towards making lighter, more elegant wines that are well worth splashing out on.

Best Sonoma County wine to buy

Frei Brothers Sonoma Reserve Chardonnay

• Available from Waitrose Cellar (£19.99)

Frei Brothers has been producing wine, when it’s been allowed, in Sonoma for 125 years, making it one of the oldest producers in the region. This comes from the Russian River Valley region which gives a bright, citric freshness to its lush tropical fruit and toasty richness that calls to mind classy chardonnays from Burgundy.

Available from:
Waitrose Cellar (£19.99)

Pedroncelli Friends Sonoma County Red

• Available from Amathus Drinks (£15.50)

From a family winery based in the Dry Creek Valley, this blend of merlot, zinfandel and sangiovese is a bargain for wine of this quality from the region. Packed with opulent blackcurrant, plummy fruit, mocha and warming spices wrapped in toasty but not overbearing oak. A winner with anything rich and meaty, or Middle Eastern veggie dishes.

Available from:
Amathus Drinks (£15.50)

La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022

• Available from Amazon (£24.45)

Absolutely gorgeous and complex yet elegant pinot – bright red cherry and crunchy pomegranate fruit beautifully balanced with an earthy, savoury underbelly, and given perfectly poised structure from very judicious use of oak. Very versatile with food but avoid overpowering it with hot spices – simple lamb chops or a mushroom risotto would be a great match.

Available from:
Amazon (£24.45)

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