Native to northeast Japan and North America, the fungus maitake – or hen-of-the-woods – can also be found growing in the UK. Simon Rogan at Fera at Claridge’s, has used it in a dish of Herdwick hogget; Michael Wignall at the Latymer in Surrey serves it in an autumnal dish of squab pigeon.

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At home, you can enjoy it best by simply grilling it until crisp on the outside and juicy inside, then dotting with butter and parsley. Or use it to stuff veg or add to salads and stir-fries. Available from the sustainable and organically certified specialist suppliers. Fundamentally Fungus, maitake is also believed to have some formidable medicinal properties.

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