Veal in Marsala with morels

Steep the dried morels in enough boiling water to only just cover them and leave for an hour or so. Retain the juice. Break the garlic into individual cloves and peel.

Tie the fillet neatly with kitchen string in thumb-width increments down its length – this will help form it into a compact shape for even cooking (or ask your butcher to do this for you). Season all over.

Melt half of the butter with 1 tbsp of oil in a large, shallow pan until very hot but not smoking. Brown the veal all over in the pan for a few minutes, turning every now and then until dark golden.

Remove from the pan and put to one side. Add the garlic cloves and morels to the butter and fry for 4-5 minutes on a lower heat until golden, tossing regularly. Return the veal to the pan, add the marsala and cover with a lid. Cook over a low heat for about 14 minutes, turning once or twice until the veal is just firm on the outside but tender, pink and juicy within.

Lift the meat from the pan and put on a plate to rest. Increase the heat to high and add the sieved (to remove any fine grit) dried mushroom liquor to the pan. Evaporate the liquid back to the same amount you had before adding the liquor. Whisk in the lemon juice, then the remaining fridge-cold butter cut into small chunks. Season, then carve the veal and return to the pan, spooning over a little of the sauce. Scatter with chopped tarragon and serve with boiled new potatoes and wilted spinach.