20 restaurants with bright futures

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20 restaurants that will stand the test of time

Noble Rot, London

When hip wine ‘zine Noble Rot manifested a physical bar-restaurant in Bloomsbury in 2015, it slaked a growing thirst for greater informality in the industry and wines from unsung regions being paired with great modern European food. Now running three sites, Noble Rot “doesn’t put a foot wrong”, says top restaurant PR Gemma Bell. “We pray the original in particular will serve us all for many years.” noblerot.co.uk

Koya, London

In 2010, the homemade udon noodles at chef Shuko Oda’s Soho restaurant were revelatory. Try them in the lamb mince and cumin miso broth. For olive online editor Alex Crossley, Koya is still compelling: “True noodle craftsmanship and eclectic collabs that keep the menu fresh.” koya.co.uk

Moor Hall, Aughton

Mark Birchall already has two Michelin stars at this Lancashire retreat but the chef is looking to the future, possibly even to 2043: “I envisage I’ll always be here in some capacity, trying to inspire the next generation.” moorhall.com

Heron, Edinburgh

In two years, 20-something chefs Tomás Gormley and Sam Yorke have bagged a Michelin star for Leith’s Heron (must- eats: venison pithivier or hasselback potato with caviar, dill, crème fraîche and Cumbrae oyster sauce) and opened the small plates joint, Skua. What will come next? heron.scot

Casa, Bristol

Casa was once Casamia, the family-run Italian that brothers Peter and Jonray Sanchez-Iglesias (who sadly died in 2015) turned into a Michelin-starred destination. Modish Casa delves back into those Italian roots in plates of gnocchetti with fennel sausage or steak florentine. A willingness to evolve sustained Casamia for 23 years and is why Peter says: “I see Casa being relevant in 20-plus years.” casabristol.co.uk

Bao, London

From helping turn Britain on to bao (try its confit pork or beef short-rib buns), to its customer game app, BAOverse, BAO is constantly innovating. “Cool and still opening places with queues out the door,” says consultant Tori Slater. “Great design, unpretentious, fun.” baolondon.com

Enish, London

Ten years after launching in Lewisham, Enish is serving delicious Nigerian dishes, such as jollof rice, beef suya or yam pepper soup, at its nine London restaurants. “Authentic and accessible in price and location,” says Be Inclusive Hospitality founder Lorraine Copes. “Enish will thrive.” enish.co.uk

Coombeshead Farm, Near Launceston

Co-founded by chefs Tom Adams and April Bloomfield, Coombeshead is a sustainable farm, guesthouse, bakery and restaurant that has put down deep roots in Cornwall. Led by Rose Maxwell, the kitchen is constantly reacting to the best, just-harvested produce. Chicken has been a recent focus, using the farm’s slow-growing breeds, Naked Neck and Gauloise, that free-forage on meadow pasture and herbs. “Chickens as they once were,” enthuses Tom. coombesheadfarm.co.uk

Mýse, Hovingham, North Yorkshire

Having proven their chops at York’s Le Cochon Aveugle, the Overingtons – Joshua and Victoria – recently opened their potential forever restaurant, Mýse. At this 19th- century inn, Josh, will celebrate exceptional British produce in dishes of, say, coal-roasted Herdwick lamb, Tetragonia spinach, lamb tongue, pearl barley and garum. restaurantmyse.co.uk

Rudie's Jerk, London

From Canary Wharf to Boxpark Croydon, Matin and Michelle Miah’s nimble Jamaican food business is knitting itself into London life. Watch it grow. rudieslondon.com

Mangal II, London

Legendary Turkish ocakbasi grill where the Dirik family’s next generation (brothers Ferhat and Copenhagen-inspired chef, Sertaç) bring crisp modernity to dishes of homemade suçuk sausages with fermented green tomatoes or grilled apple and kofte – made not with lamb, but Cornwall Project’s specialist ewe mutton. mangal2.com

Quo Vadis, London

Hospitality is in the Hart clan’s DNA. The parents have had Rutland’s Michelin-starred Hambleton Hall since 1980. Son Eddie runs Mallorca’s El Camino, and his brothers Sam and James operate Barrafina and Quo Vadis, where chefs Jeremy Lee and Frank Fletcher serve ingredient-led dishes, including that epic smoked eel sandwich. “After the facelift, it’s gorgeous,” says restaurant consultant Tori Slater. “In 20 years, Quo Vadis will still be the great dame of Dean Street.” quovadissoho.co.uk

Hawksmoor, Manchester and across the UK

Hawksmoor’s MO: polished service, great steaks, handsome restorations of beautiful buildings, aspirations of timelessness. “We’ve talked for years about building an institution we’d be proud of long into the future. It’s foundational,” says co-founder, Will Beckett. thehawksmoor.com

The Walnut Tree, Abergavenny

A foodie institution since the 1960s, the Tree has been led by chef Shaun Hill for 15 years. Now in his 70s, Shaun, a legendary figure in modern British cooking, will step back from regular shifts, eventually: “Turning up to eat and advise sounds pretty fine, but not quite yet.” He and co-owner/hotelier William Griffiths will ensure The Walnut Tree endures as a cool-headed beacon of technical rigour and true, balanced flavours. thewalnuttreeinn.com

Prashad, Drighlington

Kaushy and Mohan Patel opened Prashad as a deli-café in early-90s Bradford and created a hospitality dynasty. Son Mayur has gone to co-create Bundobust, while his brother Bobby – with his chef wife, Minal – has turned the relocated Prashad into an ambitious Gujarati restaurant that, in 2042, would celebrate its 50th birthday. prashad.co.uk

Sticky Walnut, Chester

Chez Bruce (established in 1995) is a big influence on Gary Usher. olive can see him matching its longevity at his natty Sticky Walnut, the first of his Elite Bistros. Chef Dan Jones currently stewards delivery of Sticky’s flat-iron steak with parmesan truffled chips – a dish for the ages. stickywalnut.net

Cook House, Newcastle

Anna Hedworth’s all-day Ouseburn venue (two floors of shop, restaurant, terrace and garden) is, says olive deputy magazines editor, Janine Ratcliffe: “Turning out some of the UK’s most inventive plates. Her ferments, pickles and open-fire cooking add elemental touches to a daily-changing menu.” cookhouse.org

BIBI, London

“The most progressive Indian restaurant the UK has seen,” says Restaurant Magazine deputy editor Joe Lutrario. Chef Chet Sharma will be creating dishes as dazzling as his Belted Galloway beef pepper fry or strawberry meadowsweet shrikhand for many years. bibirestaurants.com

Timberyard, Edinburgh

Opened in 2012, this converted warehouse (new-wave wines, cool homemade drinks, broadly post-Nordic use of Scotland’s larder) still feels fresh, winning its first Michelin star this year. With two generations of the Radford family (chefs, managers, sommeliers) involved and chef James Murray working wonders in the kitchen, Timberyard will “go the distance,” predicts Restaurant Magazine deputy editor Joe Lutrario. Look out for spin- off Montrose House. timberyard.co

Home by James Sommerin, Penarth

James Sommerin plans to rattle the pans for decades to come at this stylish, intimate restaurant, assisted by his daughter, business partner and head chef Georgia. Expect game and truffles to feature on Home’s autumn menu of exquisite plates. homeatpenarth.co.uk