The Good Egg, Stoke Newington, London: restaurant review
We review The Good Egg in Stoke Newington, London, a relaxed all-day cafe with globally inspired small and large plates for sharing.
In a nutshell
A pop-up and street food market regular for the last couple of years, The Good Egg now has a permanent home in North London. The menu is an eclectic mix of the original crew’s favourite dishes, inspired by their childhood and travels in amongst others Tel Aviv, Montreal, California and Jerusalem.
Who’s cooking?
Chefs Alex Coppard and Myles Briscoe are part of the original team, as is ex-Ottolenghi baker Oded Mizrachi who is responsible for the warm-from-the-oven challah, bagels and pita. Founder Joel Braham is out front looking after customers.
Menu know-how
Breakfast, lunch and dinner menus are available during the week (9am-11pm) and weekends will feature an all-day brunch menu (10am-11pm). Pastrami, breads, preserved lemons and pickles are all made on the premises and other ingredients are carefully sourced, some from just streets away such as the smoked salmon from Stoke Newington locals, Hansen and Lydersen. Meat comes from London butcher, Turner and George.
What’s the room like?
The one-room space is fresh, open and buzzy with whitewashed brickwork and blond wood tables and bench-style seating. In the evening clever lighting gives the room a cosier, more intimate feel. Tables are quite close, but the acoustics mean that conversations are kept private.
Must-orders
We shared a few small plates between two of us. Burnt aubergine with zhoug (a green chilli sauce) was served with warm pillowy pittas for scooping up the mashed smoky aubergine puree. We loved the whitefish and smoked trout croquettes; crisp and crunchy on the outside with a creamy smoky fish filling and a tartare-style dip. And who could pass up a side of Pastrami cheese fries? Slices of homemade pastrami, stringy melty cheese and pickled pink onions on top of a cast iron skillet of crisp French fries. An earthy beet, soured cream and dill salad lightened things up a bit. (Small plates £3.50-5.50, large plates £8-19)
The booze
A short cocktail list echoes the Middle-Eastern flavours elsewhere on the menu. Try the Pomegranate Paloma, a fragrant mix of tequila, pink grapefruit, pomegranate molasses , rose water and soda. The wine list is brief; a house red and white served by the carafe for £17 alongside a mid-range and expensive option for each (£29 and £41). There’s also Buxton IPA or Crate Lager by the bottle.
Any other business
There are some lovely personal touches at the Good Egg like the old-fashioned record player on which the staff’s own vinyl collections are on rotation.
The verdict
Relaxed day-to-night dining with a warm, friendly vibe and a on-trend, fun and inventive menu. Stokey folk are lucky to have this little neighbourhood gem on their doorstep.
The Good Egg, 93 Stoke Newington Church St, London N16 0AS
Words by Janine Ratcliffe
Written November 2015
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