Tredwells, Covent Garden: vegan tasting menu review

Who’s cooking?

Chantelle, who recently published a vegan cookbook, Planted (get a great deal on the book here), might be an omnivore, but she’s still committed to ‘good nutrition’ – an ethos influenced by her upbringing in New Zealand, and a childhood garden bursting with fruit, vegetables and herbs.

What’s the vibe?

This is a Marcus Wareing restaurant, so expect an element of sophistication. But Ivy-esque leather banquettes and handsome bar aside, Tredwells also feels casual and welcoming, with its jolly background jazz music and approachable staff.

What’s the food like?

Creative, flavoursome and very green. Chickpea panisse (a fried, crispy chickpea cake) was a meal in itself, made elegant with fennel fronds. Its side of chargrilled broccoli, drenched in a luxurious toasted almond butter, was one of the best ways we’ve seen that vegetable served.

A shot of chive and miso soup impressed with its chunks of salty courgette and citrusy aftertaste. But the star of the menu was a ravioli made from transparent discs of kohlrabi, with creamed avocado inside. Don’t be put off by its pungent aroma; it was a balanced plate of clean, fresh veg, with a sweet pickled aftertaste.

The best dessert was a gooey, golden hazelnut pudding. It reminded us of Ferrero Rochers, despite the missing diary, and came with two coins of dark chocolate sorbet.

And the drinks?

Go for the wine pairing (£25 per person). A glass of Le Paradou viognier tasted like an extension of our miso soup; and hazelnut-spiked vermouth on ice, which came with dessert, surprised us with its deliciousness.

olive tip

Start with a botanical cocktail, including a rejuvenating blend of peach, ginger, jasmine tea and gin.

Tredwells.com, £35 pp

Check out our vegan dinner menus here:

- vegan lentil burgers

- vegan quinoa chilli

- vegan Thai green curry

- falafel grain bowl

- buddha bowl salad