Röski, Liverpool: Restaurant Review

Who is cooking?

Chef-patron Anton Piotrowski has an impressive résumé; he won MasterChef: the Professionals in 2012 and he held a Michelin star as executive head chef at the Treby Arms in Devon (read our foodie guide to Devon here). Röski is his first solo venture and he plans to introduce Liverpool to a more relaxed style of fine dining.

What’s the vibe like?

At around 30 covers Röski has an intimate feel and the minimal décor ensures the focus remains on the food. Stylish bronze light fittings add a splash of warmth to the neutral grey and white room and the eclectic soundtrack ranges from Florence and the Machine to jazz.

Röski aims to simplify fine dining and dishes are stripped back, resulting in a creative style of cookery that’s all about modern twists on classics and whimsical desserts.

What should we order at Röski?

We opted for the seven-course tasting menu and a snack of tapioca crackers with potted shrimp, edible flowers and a burst of citrus got the meal off to a promising start. A starter of red deer venison with creamy potato espuma, game gravy and garden courgettes was hearty and rich.

Röski’s take on scouse brought the traditional stew up to date – tender, 100-day-aged slow-cooked brisket from local butcher Edge & Son was topped with barbecued carrot and swede, parsley powder and tangy ‘drunken’ onions marinated in beer. Thick slices of buttermilk sourdough with roast-onion burnt butter made the ideal accompaniment to the scouse, ensuring we soaked up every last morsel. Crab tart in seaweed pastry conjured up an intricate taste of the sea, the subtly sweet crustacean lifted by a hit of freshness from pickles and langoustine foam.

Scouse, smoked vegetables, smoked bacon dumpling, beef gravy

The second seafood course of smoked eel with chorizo jam, dill, leek ash, quail egg and parsley root was equally inventive. Next came a winter warmer suited to the chilly night – roasted breast of ethically farmed Norfolk quail with indulgent triple-cooked chips, smoked sausage jus and a haggis bonbon brought together a medley of sophisticated flavours.

Middle Eastern-inspired roasted and caramelised cauliflower with parmesan custard and tuile was an appealing vegetarian course, and came with frozen apple and a piquant madras curry oil that worked well with the nutty cauliflower.

Röski restaurant, Liverpool

A refreshing pre-dessert of blueberry curd, yuzu gel, satsuma meringue and fennel sorbet led us towards the showstopping ‘tribute to rhubarb’ dessert. Yorkshire forced rhubarb, caramelised white chocolate and silky ‘builder’s tea’ ice cream came with an array of leaves doused in essence of rhubarb which billowed across the table, while edible silver leaf and candyfloss completed this theatrical creation.

Caramelised white chocolate, Yorkshire forced rhubarb, builder's tea ice cream

What are the drinks like?

There’s a wide variety of wines available, including mid-range and premium options and tasting menus can be paired with matching wine flights. We sipped chilled Jacquart Brut Mosaïque Rosé champagne before moving on to a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from the Yealands Estate, with notes of wild thyme and citrus.

The verdict

Röski delivers on its promise to breathe new life into fine dining, serving food to get excited about, with bold flavours and meticulous presentation. Dining here is an experience to remember and the attentive service and laid-back atmosphere will make you want to linger.

Tasting menus from £55 per person for five courses, lunch £25 per person for three courses.