Civerinos Slice, Edinburgh: restaurant review

Who’s cooking?

From Italian heritage, Michele Civiera, founder of Civerinos, has worked with the very best pizza chefs from Sardinia to Sicily to ensure that the pizzas here are as authentic as possible.

The dual fuel ‘Thug Slice’ oven, in the open kitchen, uses gas to provide consistency of cooking, and wood to add colour and crunch.

What’s cooking?

Pizza, by the slice and 20-inchers. There are 11 to choose from but if one of these doesn’t appeal you can create your own. Our recommendation, order a few slices of each to try as much as possible.

Fresh ingredients are key, along with a secret Italian family recipe: a semi-sourdough base is slow proven for 72 hours. Pineapple Controversy with San Marzano tomato sugo (sauce), buffalo mozzarella, glazed smokehouse pork shoulder, charred pineapple and rocket is a Hawaiian seriously updated. The Capo-cosa, topped with wild boar and fennel salami, artichoke, olives, peppers and a boiled egg, is another great combination.

Sides, should you need them, come as fries and mustard aioli or a house salad. Desserts include a sweet calzone filled with Nutella and served with ice cream, or hot doughnuts dusted with cinnamon sugar. (Both as good as they sound but heavy after stockpiling on pizza.)

What’s the room/atmosphere like?

Civerinos is big, noisy, and fast paced. Food is served on paper plates, you eat with your hands, and it gets messy. But while the vibe is relaxed, staff are efficient (food comes out quickly) and are passionate about what they’re serving.

The booze:

Civerinos’ slushy cocktails, which include Frozey, (a frozen rosé wine drink), are a great summer accompaniment to your slice. Otherwise, you can opt for Italian wines by the glass or carafe, and a small selection of craft beers.

The verdict:

A little bit of NYC in Edinburgh’s Old Town.

Civerinos Slice, 49 Forrest Road, Edinburgh, EH1 2QP

Words | Hilary Sturzaker, June 2017

Photographs | Civerinos Slice