The Balkans cuisine: how to cook like a local
Want to learn about the cuisine of the Balkans? Discover what makes this unique cuisine special, plus three recipes to try, from Irina Janakievska.
Want to learn about the cuisine of the Balkans? Discover what makes this unique cuisine special, plus three recipes to try, from Irina Janakievska. For more global recipes, check out our guides to Hokkaido cuisine or Macedonian food.
Recipes extracted from The Balkan Kitchen by Irina Janakievska (£27, Quadrille). Photographs: Liz Seabrook.
The Balkans cuisine
The Balkans is at last claiming its place among the world’s great culinary crossroads. It spans Southeastern Europe, from Slovenia in the northwest, down through Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia, Albania, Bulgaria and Greece, reaching the western coast of Turkey. Here east meets west, and human migration, numerous civilisations, empires, ethnicities and religions have converged in a unique, multi-layered cuisine as rich and diverse as the people and landscapes that span the Balkans. Mediterranean lightness blends seamlessly with inland heartiness. Levantine syrup-soaked sweets such as baklava coexist harmoniously with Central European style cakes and pastries.
Exquisite ingredients are at the heart of Balkan cuisine. From the Adriatic, Aegean and Mediterranean shores: olives, figs, grapes and other sun-loving fruits and vegetables, fish and seafood. From the rivers and lakes: freshwater fish. From the rugged mountains: wild herbs, honey, dairy and meats (both from centuries-old herding traditions and wild game). From the vast fertile plains: grains, sunflowers, legumes and livestock (including pork and beef). Peppers, tomatoes and beans are loved and feature prominently.
All are enjoyed seasonally, either fresh (vibrant salads of sunripened tomatoes, cucumbers, greens with a drizzle of oil and vinegar) or prepared simply using a variety of cooking techniques (including live fire or slow-cooking) so as to maximise their depth of flavour and textures. Abundance across the region is never wasted – most beloved of all Balkan culinary rituals is the art of preserving the seasons. Fruits become marmalade, đzem (jam), slatko (spoon sweets), pekmez (fruit butter), liqueurs, compotes. Vegetables are dried, pickled, fermented or turned into iconic spreads like ajvar – the Balkan caviar. Meats, fish and cheeses are fermented, dried, cured or smoked. This underscores the Balkan spirit of ‘cucina sopravvivenza’—a cuisine of survival, embodying centuries of necessity and resilience.
Eating in the Balkans is about more than sustenance. Meals are never rushed. They are moments to savour connection with family, friends, neighbours. To enjoy the simple pleasure and warmth of gathering around a table, and sharing delicious food. Either in the home or whiling away the evening at a konoba or gostilna (a guesthouse) along the Adriatic coast, enjoying the catch of the day, or at a kafana (tavern), enjoying the mouthwatering scent of meats and vegetables grilling over the rostilj (grill). Tables laden with dishes for sharing, with a variety of breads and pastries. Always accompanied by a glass of something fortifying such rakija (fruit brandy) or a great local wine, and toasting to life.
Irina's recipes from the Balkans
Polneti piperki (stuffed peppers)
Stuff whole peppers with paprika-spiced beef and risotto rice, then serve warm with yogurt on the side.
Gibanica (cheese and egg filo pie)
Gibanica is a cheese and egg filo rag pie that features regularly on a Balkan table for breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner. For a savoury treat, serve the gibanica with cured or smoked meats, cheeses, vegetable preserves and fresh salad. For a sweet treat, sprinkle with a little cinnamon and sugar or drizzle over a little honey.
Tarator
The tarator can be as thick or as liquid as you like. If you prefer yours thicker, simply use thicker Greek-style yogurt. Equally, feel free to add more garlic but, before you adjust the amount of garlic, allow the mixture to sit for at least an hour in the fridge as the garlic flavour strengthens the longer it sits. The topping is non-traditional, but this is how I love serving it for guests – feel free to simply top your tarator with a little dried or fresh mint and a drizzle of good oil.
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