Nova Scotia, Canada's cuisine: where to eat, drink and stay

Pub culture

The Celtic maritime influence ensures a lively pub scene in Nova Scotia. Music is a huge part of local life and there are regular live sets in most bars, pubs and restaurants. Traditionally the band would take a break, raise their glass and say ‘sociable’, so this has become a way of saying cheers among locals. Pub food classics include seafood chowder, fried clams and fish and chips.

Lobster

Nova Scotians are obsessed with lobster, as it is fresh and abundant all year round. The crustacean is used in everything from Acadian grandmother-style pies, hearty poutine and brioche rolls, to intense stocks and delicate mousse. The meat is also combined with seafood and vegetables to create hearty chowders that can be tasted along Nova Scotia’s Chowder Trail, including cosy coastal restaurant Rhubarb. Get up close and personal with 45-year-old lobsters at Ryer Retail in Peggy’s Cove.

Brothers-style pepperoni

Introduced to Nova Scotia by two Polish immigrants, woodfire smoked pepperoni is now a staple snack found in delis, shops and pubs across the province. It’s often served in deep-fried slices with a honey mustard dipping sauce. The sliced pepperoni creates a cup shape and the oil gathers in a pool in the centre for a moreish savoury treat.

Haskap and blueberries

Oxford, in the north of the province, is the wild blueberry capital of Canada, while Lunenburg is a haven for long, nutrient-rich haskap berries. Their tart, sweet flavour make them great dessert ingredients as well as botanicals to infuse into gin – try Steinhart Distillery’s haskap blend as a unique aperitif.

Shellfish

Nova Scotia’s clean, cold waters produce superb shellfish including plump oysters, from the minerally Eastern Shore Sober Island variety to Shandaph from the northern Antigonish area and briney molluscs harvested from the wild, rugged shores of Cape Breton Island. Digby scallops, grown in the pristine Bay of Fundy, are some of the largest and sweetest in the world.

Regional produce

The rich, fertile soils of the Annapolis Valley yield some of Canada’s best fruit and veg, from crisp, sweet Honeycrisp apples to strawberries, cranberries and pumpkins. Apples are also pressed to create still and sparkling ciders that can be sampled at Annapolis Cider Company in Wolfville.

Wine

The province was one of the first wine-growing regions in North America. Its cool climate and fertile soils, similar to Champagne in France, make prime conditions to produce sparkling, white and light red varieties. Nova Scotia has its own DOP – crisp, aromatic Tidal Bay created especially to be paired with seafood. Lightfoot & Wolfville makes a fantastic chardonnay, and Benjamin Bridge offers a selection of elegant bruts.

Donair

Donair is one of Halifax’s official dishes. A Greek immigrant invented the sweet, tangy, creamy sauce that accompanies the classic spiced doner kebab to create a unique twist. This is late-night, post-party food and there’s a constant debate among Nova Scotians whether King of Donair or Tony’s Famous Donair serves the best.

Rappie pie

This traditional dish is proper comfort food, created by the Acadians on their return to the land after the Great Deportation in the 18th century. Finely grated potato tops a rich, gooey chicken filling flavoured with a summer savory herb seasoning similar to marjoram.

Where to eat and drink in Nova Scotia

Tom’s Lobster Shack

Nova Scotia’s best lobster rolls – according to locals – are served by Tom and his small team from a blue shack perched above the lobster pots and stilted houses of picturesque fishing village Peggy’s Cove. The classic tosses lobster meat in a sweet, creamy sauce, while ‘naked’ is dressed in a simple garlic butter, stuffed in a lightly toasted brioche roll on a bed of kettle chips. Iced coffee is laced with maple syrup for a sweet, Canadian-style hit. After lunch, mooch up to the iconic lighthouse complete with swish viewing platform and clamber across the smooth rocks to soak up the Atlantic air and glistening sea views. @tomslobstershack

Mystic, Halifax

Strikingly perched on the Halifax waterfront like a glass-fronted wave, this fine-dining restaurant showcases Nova Scotia’s distinct terroir in six- and eight-course tasting menus. Chef de cuisine Malcolm Campbell and his team use local ingredients in an inventive combination of traditional and contemporary techniques – think swordfish bresaola crafted into the shape of a rose, seaweed-wrapped lobster in scallop sauce, and saffron chocolate bon-bons served alongside haskap pâtes de fruits on dehydrated sea plants foraged from the Salt Marsh Trail. mysticnovascotia.ca

Church Brewing Company, Wolfville

This converted church leans into its history – there’s a live music stage in the original sanctuary and aptly named seasonal specials are popped up on boards like hymns of the week: think Congregation Pilsner, Illuminate Pale Ale and Church Blonde. Eclectic seating areas are interspersed across the space beneath photographs of cultural icons including a tribute to Gord Downie, the late singer from Canadian band The Tragically Hip. churchbrewing.ca

The Narrows Public House, Halifax

A local duo lived in this heritage property in the city’s North End district while meticulously restoring it into a truly Nova Scotian neighbourhood hangout. On-point snacks include deep-fried pepperoni dipped in honey mustard sauce and pickled herring with homemade crisps, as well as pub classics – fish and chips, Lunenburg sausage supper (with mash and sauerkraut), and comforting hodge-podge. The province is well represented on the draught beers and ales list – look out for Big Spruce Brewing, Propeller and Boxing Rock – and there is live music three times a week. thenarrowspublichouse.ca

The Press Gang Restaurant & Oyster Bar, Halifax

Perch at the bar at this candlelit maritime- themed joint for local ales and fresh oysters. There’s always an oyster option from each Atlantic Canadian province, so you can taste your way up the coast. These might be huge, hand-dived Pristine Bay molluscs from Nova Scotia’s Pictou Island area, Prince Edward Island Barstool Cocktails, New Brunswick Beausoleil and Newfoundland Merasheen Bay varieties. Pair with a glass of Nova Scotian sparkling wine – perhaps a zingy, aromatic Gaspereau Tidal Bay. thepressgang.ca

Where to stay in Nova Scotia

Muir, Halifax

Recently opened as part of the impressive Queen’s Marque development, this five-star hotel sits majestically on the waterfront. Muir is Gaelic for ‘sea’ and references are woven into the contemporary ship-like design, most notable in a striking fresnel lens art installation at the entrance. Attention to detail in the plush rooms is exceptional – the sleek bar is stocked with local spirits and snacks (Halifax-based Compass Distillers gin, Lunenburg’s Ironworks rum and artisan bars from Peace by Chocolate set up by Syrian refugees); a QR code linking to natural Nova Scotian soundbites accompanies Canadian spring water at turn down; and curtains open at the press of a button to reveal views over the boardwalk, harbour and Georges Island lighthouse. Breakfast at Drift ranges from the nourishing The Hipster plate to huge frilly pancakes studded with wild local blueberries. Come evening, cocktails spotlight local spirits and ingredients such as foraged forest syrup, while chefs elevate traditional Acadian dishes in the likes of mini rappie pie with Abundant Acres pickled farm salad. Unwind at Windward Wellness, rotating between the sauna and eucalyptus steam room, revitalising dips in the cold plunge, and private sessions in the Himalayan pink salt room that pumps in maritime Atlantic salt air. The concierge can also organise helicopter rides to Cape Breton Island for autumn foliage viewing, whale watching and picnics on the beach. muirhotel.com

The Inn at Grand Pré Winery, Annapolis Valley

The Stutz family moved from Switzerland to the Annapolis Valley in 1994 and lovingly cultivated a small vineyard outside the town of Wolfville. They’ve now turned their house into a pint-sized inn. Many cosy features remain, reflected in the black and white photographs dating back to 1828 when the house was built, including a domestic wood-panelled kitchen and cosy reception room where breakfasts of freshly baked scones with pear butter are served. Six stylish rooms lead off the original wooden staircase, each offering unique features. The light-filled Sun room has a chic cabin ambience and huge en suite with built-in bath; Courtyard is a spacious wood-panelled suite with original fireplace; and the Loft boasts two rooms and a stylish seating area beneath original eaves. Mini bars are stocked with a generous selection of the property’s wines and beers. Accompany with a made-to-order charcuterie board piled high with an ode to the province – chilli coriander salami, hot-smoked duck, pickled grapes, acorn squash and fermented peach. The latter can also be enjoyed at on-site restaurant Le Caveau along with fresh oysters, tuna crudo and red deer stew. During the winter months, there are supper clubs and raclette nights at the inn, and wine tastings in the adjoining wine shop. Rent an e-bike to cycle along the Harvest Moon Trail that connects the valley’s vineyards, ending at The Long Table Social Club that hosts sociable outdoor suppers with views over the Bay of Fundy and Cape Split. grandprewines.com

For more travel information, visit explore-canada.co.uk and novascotia.com.

Image credits: Doublespace, Getty Images, Aaron McKenzie Fraser, Alex Crossley