Best restaurants in Valletta: where to eat and drink

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• Best restaurants in Valletta
• Where to stay in Valletta

olive's 10 best restaurants in Valletta

• For Michelin-starred dining: ION Harbour
• For a historic café: Caffe Cordina
• For a bistro lunch: Trabuxu
• For al fresco Italian: Sao Paolo Naufrago
• For a modern Maltese dinner: Noni
• For seasonal produce: Tal Petut
• For ftira pizzas: Nenu the Artisan Baker
• For a cool lunch spot: Is-Suq Tal-Belt
• For an indulgent brunch: Tribe
• For an authentic bar: Café Society

Best restaurants in Valletta

ION Harbour – for Michelin-starred dining

ION Harbour, on the rooftop of Iniala hotel, is the only two-Michelin-starred restaurant on Malta. Run by Simon Rogan of L'Enclume in the Lake District, the restaurant aims to carry the principles of L'Enclume over to Malta. There is a strong focus on sustainability, working with small local producers and a specialist head of sustainability, forager Keith Abela, to make the most of lesser known local plants and herbs.

The restaurant offers incredible 180 degree views over the historic harbour and across to the Three Cities, transforming to a horizon of twinkling lights as the sun goes down. There are two tasting menus to choose from, changing regularly with the seasons – go for the full 12-course tasting menu for the maximum experience. Discover Maltese speciality ingredients dotted throughout the intricate courses such as lampuki fish, stuffed rabbit and a goat's jam cake. The menu may sound deceptively simple but has hidden details within every course – 'Purple Reign tomatoes from Joseph's farm' became a wafer-thin tomato leaf, topped with tomato gel and served with a shot of intensely flavoured tomato water. Familiar dishes from L'Enclume have also been transported to Malta, such as the sticky truffle pudding topped with Cora Linn cheese – a highlight of the starters. Have a wine flight to accompany your meal, or try Maltese wine by the glass from the Ta'Betta wine estate. ionharbour.com

Caffe Cordina – for a historic café

Established in 1837, and facing Piazza Regina, old-school Caffe Cordina is worth a visit for the striking marble staircase and decorative domed ceiling (embellished by Maltese painter, Giuseppe Cali) alone. It's popular with tourists but locals too, and is buzzy all day long. It comprises tea rooms, a pasticceria, a coffee bar and a gelateria; sit down inside or outside on the square, and waiters in black waistcoats will bring pretty patisserie to your table – try a pudina (Maltese bread pudding with candied fruit, walnuts and chocolate hazelnut cream) or kwarezimal, another traditional sweet made with a hazelnut crumble base, spices, honey and almonds. Pastizzi are a style of pastry found across Malta but Caffe Cordina has a style all of its own – go for the ones filled with ricotta and peas, wrapped in flaky pastry. caffecordina.com

Trabuxu – for a bistro lunch

Head to Trabuxu for a buzzy bistro lunch, serving Maltese classics alongside Italian-inspired dishes. The friendly staff, red checkered tablecloths and small outside terrace on the street (perfect for people watching) give a great atmosphere for a relaxed meal. On the menu, pastas are rich and comforting – think homemade agnolotti in brodo or fettuccine with bone marrow and mushrooms. Rabbit is a must try when you're in Malta and the Trabuxu braised local rabbit stew with mustard, Maltese sausage and creamy cannellini beans (served with hot, thin and ultra-crispy fried potatoes) doesn't disappoint. Finish with a berry pavlova piled high with rich, vanilla-scented chantilly cream. trabuxu.com.mt

San Paolo Naufrago – for al fresco Italian

Valletta is a hilly city with every inch of space put to good use – hence the location of San Paolo Naufrago with a cluster of outside tables perched on the steps of St Lucia's Street. With flags and fairy lights strung across the street and 80s power ballads playing quietly in the background, it's a fun local gem. Order pizzas to share topped with burrata or mortadella and crushed pistachios, try the baked rosetta pasta swirled with ham and cheese or scoop up traditional octopus stew with chunks of toasted local bread. instagram.com/sanpaolonaufrago/

Noni – for a modern Maltese dinner

Experience the one-Michelin-starred Noni tasting menu for a memorable dining experience. The menu combines influences from Malta and across the Mediterranean with classic French cooking, served in the stone vaults of a historic building that's more than 400 years old. Each course is served with a card explaining more about the dish or provenance of ingredients within. Our personal highlight was the opening selection of canapé snacks, from warm sesame bread served with both salty butter and local olive oil, to a delicate tomato and mozzarella tart and tiny pickled mushroom taco. Presentation is playful throughout – save room for impressively architectural desserts and clever petit fours. noni.com.mt

Tal-Petut – for seasonal produce

Take a gondola across the water from Valletta to explore the Three Cities and stop at Tal-Petut whilst you're there. Tucked down a pretty side street, this neighbourhood restaurant specialises in local produce, with ingredients often cooked hours after sourcing. Dishes change daily and can be discussed with the friendly staff to create a menu for your table, with dishes served individually or family-style, depending on your preference. The broad changing selection of antipasto gets things off to a great start, with platters of outstanding chicken liver pâté, homemade dips, roast vegetables, olives and creamy homemade ricotta. Follow with a pasta course (we enjoyed rich cubes of cheesy baked spaghetti) before meaty mains such as rabbit or slow-cooked pork belly. talpetut.com

Nenu The Artisan Baker – for ftira pizzas

Run by Carmelo (also known as Nenu) and his wife Angela, family-owned bakery Nenu The Artisan Baker specialises in ftira, a ring-shaped, leavened bread often used for sandwiches, tarts and pizzas. Order a classic Karmni s-Sultana pizza, which comes with potatoes, tomatoes, anchovies and fennel seed; or go for a tomato-free base, topped with potatoes, pork belly strips, ricotta, rosemary and broad beans. Whatever you choose, it will be made with ingredients indigenous to Malta. nenuthebaker.com<

Is-Suq Tal-Belt – for a cool lunch spot

This once-derelict Victorian building now thrives as a striking indoor food market. Spread over three floors (giant deli in the basement, selling everything from fresh fish to spices and oils; food stalls at ground level, offering tapas, pulled meat and gelato; and a chill-out space upstairs, where live bands sometimes play), Is-Suq Tal-Belt is the place to stock up on bottles of prickly pear liqueur; salmon poke bowls; and ricotta-filled pastizzi pastries (Malta’s national snack, made with flaky pastry). issuqtalbelt.com

Tribe – for an indulgent brunch

Brunch is popular in Malta and all-day restaurant Tribe (with three locations across the island) has a lengthy, indulgent brunch menu with something to appeal to everyone. Pancakes are loaded with multiple toppings – the Chunky Monkey has banana, peanut butter, dulce de leche and crushed nuts, while the Raspberry Rush has ruby chocolate and raspberry crémeux, berry compote, pistachio paste and pistachio crumbs. There are diverse menu influences, from the Greek Geek halloumi-topped open sourdough to a katsu chicken bun or cheeseburger spring rolls. The Jungle Juice bar offers a range of fresh juices and smoothies, too. tribemalta.com

Legligin – for Maltese meze in a stone cellar

Legligin, meaning ‘one who drinks a lot’, is a charming restaurant-cum-wine bar serving Maltese meze alongside a selection of 30-odd stellar wines. Squeezed inside the cellar of an original townhouse, its red shutters, stone walls punctured with holes (for wine bottles) and mismatching crockery give the whole place a rustic feel. Feast on breads with olive oil; homemade caponata with chunks of local sausage; arjoli (a rich blend of sundried tomatoes, olives, anchovies and capers); honey-glazed pork; and shots of limoncello. legliginmalta.com

Amorino – for pretty ice cream

Surprisingly, there's not a big ice cream culture in Valletta, but gelateria Amorino is always a reliable bet if you're visiting the city in peak summer when the temperatures can soar. Choose your cone size, then pile it high with as many flavours as you fancy. It’s all made with whole milk and freshly-picked fruit (they only use just-ripe ingredients), plus there are several organic and vegan options. Go for silky salted pistachio, cool coconut or refreshing lime and basil, and watch as it’s carefully sculpted into an ice-cream rose. amorino.com

Café Society – for an authentic bar

This is the kind of place where locals play chess on the pavement tables outside. Squashed between other palazzo-style townhouses on beautiful, stone-stepped St John Street (which leads down to The Grand Harbour), Café Society is a cool-yet-cosy bar that serves both classic cocktails and craft beers. Perch on a stool and listen to live jazz, funk and retro tunes, while sipping an old fashioned. facebook.com/pg/cafesocietyuptown

The Harbour Club – for dinner with a view

Make the most of picturesque Grand Harbour views with a table on the sleek, sloping terrace at The Harbour Club. Seafood is a must at this French-influenced restaurant, originally built as a warehouse in 1712, so try the fish of the day with heirloom tomato relish and candied lemon zest; saffron risotto with calamari; or local red prawn carpaccio, all served in bespoke crockery made by local ceramicist Sue Mifsud. It’s just as mesmerising inside, where the golden-hued wooden floor once belonged to the deck of an old American ship. theharbourclubmalta.com

The Mediterranean Culinary Academy – for a cookery school

Hand-roll your own cannelloni and then fill it with irkotta (like Italian ricotta, but made from fresh milk as opposed to milk whey), fresh herbs and lemon on A Taste of Malta cookery class at The Mediterranean Culinary Academy. You’ll try other Maltese specialties throughout the three-hour course, including bigilla (a broad bean dip) and salty goat’s cheeselets, and learn about how the island’s central Mediterranean location has helped shape its cuisine (guess who Malta inherited its love of tea from?). mcamalta.com

Where to stay in Valletta

Iniala Harbour House

For five-star luxury, stay at Iniala Harbour House. Situated right on the harbour front and made up of four discreet townhouses, there are a range of luxurious rooms and decadent suites to choose from. Rooms and suites within each of the houses vary by design, from bold splashes of colour and eclectic artwork to moody wooden panelling and custom tapestries. The best rooms come complete with private plunge pools and Maltese balconies to sit and watch the boats go by. Enjoy an atmospheric massage in the spa set in the hotel's historic stone vaults or cross the road for holiday fitness in the fully equipped gym.

Book a reservation at Ion Harbour (see above), Simon Rogan's two Michelin-starred restaurant on the rooftop, to enjoy a 12 course tasting menu. Breakfast is also served on the rooftop with a short menu of classics to choose from – order an omelette to your liking and pair with a fresh green juice while soaking up the sun.

Doubles from £463 per night, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk

Casa Ellul

Located in the heart of Valletta, this small luxury boutique hotel is set in a 19th-century former Victorian palazzo, with a pretty internal courtyard and winding staircases. There are just nine suites and each has a different feel and style of decor. Suite six has a minimalist design and unique double-height shower, plus a terrace with views over the harbour and Valletta's rooftops. Suite seven, another duplex, comes complete with private jacuzzi while suite five has an original fireplace and antique piano.

The ground floor is home to intimate in-house restaurant Risette for informal fine-dining and a weekly changing menu with unexpected Japanese influences.

Doubles from £186 per night, check availability at booking.com or casaellul.com