Five Greek island getaways for food lovers

Where to stay on Sifnos: Doubles at Verina Astra from £349 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com

Milos

On the north-western coast of Milos you will find the charming village of Trypiti where hotelier Nausika Georgiadou has an even more charming house overlooking the curve of Klima. The former economist has spent the last eight years shaping the perfect hideaway, Skinopi Lodge, in the neighbouring village. Set within an olive grove, the fruits of which are bottled for guests, the lodge launches its kitchen table this summer. Guests staying in its seven villas will be able to pick their own herbs and vegetables for cooking classes with local grandmothers, as well as enjoy communal evening feasts cooked in a traditional Cycladic wood oven. When you are not marvelling at the Skinopi sunsets or swimming off its private deck, try and bag a table at O Hamos!, where the Psatha family only include what they grow or rear on their nearby farm— try the pork kleftiko — on the restaurant’s handwritten menu. Sarakiniko cove is known for its white rock formations and crystal blue waters. Have a swim, then head to Ohamos to sit in its shady, flower-filled garden and try local dishes like aubergine with pork or roast kid; the meats and cheeses come from the owners’ farm. For a real treat, charter Nausika’s boat Summer Wine to take you to the neighbouring island of Kimolos, and book in for a feet-in-the-sand lunch at To Kyma.

Where to stay on Milos: Villas at Skinopi Lodge from £386 per night, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com

Folegandros

Near to Milos, the diminutive island of Folegandros is being put on the map for summer 2024 thanks to the opening of Gundari, a five-star eco resort set in 80 acres of nature reserve on its western coast. Food takes centre stage with Michelin-starred Greek chef Lefteris Lazarou behind its dining spaces, which are powered by the hotel’s own organic farm, where guests can also enjoy farm-to-fork dinners. From Gundari, there are many hiking routes to explore, virgin beaches to discover and tavernas with spectacular views to bookmark — such as Papalagi, which is best enjoyed after a boat trip around the island. For something a little special, foodies should request a cooking class with yiayia Irene, whose homespun recipes have sustained her restaurant kitchen for more than 60 years. For dinner outside of the in resort, head to the main square on Folegandros, to Kritikos. Order matsata as an accompaniment to rabbit stew, tomato-stewed rooster or kontosouvli (pork roasted on a large spit). The house wine is good, or order a carafe of tsipouro.

Where to stay on Folegandros: Standard suite at Gundari from £385 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com

Tinos

Tinos still flies relatively under the radar but it has much to offer the more intrepid traveller. Strewn with more than 40 traditional villages, nascent vineyards and secluded beaches, the Cycladic island is also a hot tip for the more discerning food lover. Seafood pasta at Thalassaki by the water’s edge is a must, as is the lobster baked with orzo at Marathia near Agios Fostis. Stay at Xinara House, a beautifully converted old bishop’s house set beneath Exombourga Mountain, where its house manager Jenny can organise all manner of like-a-local experiences, from private tastings of O-Tionos’ Assyrtiko wines, to visits to Aggelas Rouggeri, where local kariki cheese is matured in the traditional Tinos style.

Where to stay on Tinos: Xinara House, check rates and availability at xinarahouse.com or booking.com

Crete

Greece’s largest island, food is the language of love for Crete. Set across mountain and sea, while drenched in year-round sun and carpeted in olive groves, it is an abundant natural larder of fish, meat, vegetables — Cretan horta (wild greens) are the best — fruit, honey and, of course, the finest extra virgin olive oil. Bed down near the pretty Venetian town of Chania at the family-run Methoi Kindeli Estate, a working organic farm dating back to the 17th century which has three guesthouses to choose from. Family recipes are shared to provide inspiration for evenings spent playing chef in your kitchen, and its myriad fruits are served at breakfast and stocked in guest fridges. For something a little swankier, the iconic Blue Palace reopens this May under the Phāea brand as a boutique hotel. With food at its core, guests will be invited to harvest and cook their own ingredients in the traditional way, under the soil, before enjoying a communal feast under the night sky — alongside Cretan wines.

Where to stay on Crete: Metohi Kindelis Estate guesthouses from £240 per night, check availability at metohi-kindelis.gr.

Phāea Blue Palace suites from £575 per night, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk

Kate Lough is a freelance writer and editor. You can follow her on Instagram @‌kateloughstudio

More hotel inspiration for Greek island getaways from our team

Nido, part of the Mar-Bella Collection, Corfu

If you're looking for a luxurious slice of heaven just a short drive from Corfu old town, five-star adults only hotel Nido is for you. Part of the Mar-Bella collection, Nido consists of 70 rooms, all are suites and come with their own mini pool or jacuzzi. It has two restaurants offering Greek and Mediterranean gastronomy and two bars – one of which is in the infinity pool. So you can sip a cocktail while staring out at the breath-taking panoramic views of the Ionian sea.

Relaxation and indulgence are the name of the game at Nido and it's been carefully designed to be a treat for the senses. Colourful bougainvillea line the paths and the decor is exquisite – our favourite room is the Heritage bar. With huge windows, plush furnishings and a stunning marble-topped bar, it's the perfect place for pre dinner drinks. You're in good hands with their mixologists, who were thrilled to bring us everything from fresh juice to negroni spagliatio (with prosecco in it).

Compared to the all inclusive sister hotel MarBella next door, which has 359 rooms and is a very family-friendly affair, Nido is peaceful and intimate. It would be a great spot for a romantic getaway. However, there are some fantastic meals to be eaten at MarBella – we enjoyed plate after plate of fantastic fresh fish and seafood at the Deck beach bar and grill while sipping local Greek wines. The good news is they offer a dine around experience, to experience the restaurants at MarBella all you need to do is hitch a ride in one of the private golf carts.

A highlight of our stay was lunch in the rustic, family-owned Akrogiali taverna, located next to the hotel beach. It was here we had the best taramasalata we've ever had the pleasure of eating with warm, fluffy pitta, scattered with oregano and salt – a thoughtful touch which really set this taverna lunch apart. As well as Greek salad drenched in extra virgin olive oil, made with salty Corfu olives and tomatoes which tasted of sunshine. Sat in a shady spot, next to the lapping waves, it really is paradise. There are lots more classic dishes to try too, like calamari, baked butter beans and stuffed tomatoes.

Another one for your itinerary is the walking food tour of Corfu town, organised by the hotel. Starting in Durrell park, under the low branches of olive and magnolia trees, you'll learn about architecture, history, Corfu traditions and, of course, food! Stopping at the best local spots, we tried delicious cured meats, cheeses and – our favourite – sweet and savoury pastries from a tiny bakery. We couldn't stop smiling as we wolfed down feta and spinach pie, nutty halwa bites and slices of custard tart. All washed down with the ginger beer that's a Corfu must-try. Anyone who appreciates good ingredients will love stopping at the spice shop, an Aladdin's cave that hits you with an unbelievable fragrance before you're even through the door. For those with a sweet tooth, there's the artisan kumquat shop. From the traditional candied fruits which have a deep floral honey-like flavour, to the selection of boozy beverages, there's something for everyone. Make sure you get a freshly made canned cocktail to sip on while you walk.

Heads up for booking: Greek Orthodox Easter is in April and Corfu town gets exceptionally busy, as the church plays a central role in the procession and ceremonies.

Rates at Nido start at €196 for bed and breakfast, they also offer half board. At MarBella, rooms start at €272 with premium all inclusive.

Hotel Archontiko Angelou, Leros

Though Marianna doesn’t offer dinner at this sympathetically renovated old mansion, her al fresco breakfasts are worth a visit alone. She uses a glut of local ingredients (many grown in the hotel’s garden, where breakfast is taken), including freshly squeezed juices, yogurt, honey, home-baked bread, fresh cheeses, jams and a legendary lemon curd. There are also vegan, dairy- and gluten-free options, such as chia puddings and cashew cheese. If you want to explore Leros, Marianna will pack a picnic for you. If not, press her for recommendations, from the island’s best beaches and tavernas to boat trips for lazy days spent snoozing and swimming to remote white pebble beaches.

Doubles from £121 per night, check availability at hotel-angelou-leros.com or booking.com

Kivotos and Mavro, Santorini

Perched high on Santorini's cliffs, Kivotos Hotel's unique architecture mirrors the island's volcanic aesthetic, creating a dramatic and sleek effect for a luxury break. Located in the tranquil area of Imerovigli on the island’s coastal west side, the hotel’s unobstructed views of the crescent-shaped caldera are among the best on the island. The perfect spot to soak in these scenes is at Kivotos’ upscale dining establishment, Mavro. Now under the expert guidance of Chef Dimitris Katrivesis, Mavro blends local ingredients and traditional recipes with modern flavour combinations. Drawing from Katrivesis’ global travels, the signature cooking technique is Japanese robata (open fire cooking) while the Greek shared dining style, ‘moirasma’, is heartily embraced. These sharable tasting menus, themed around the phases of the moon, feature locally sourced ingredients and superbly fresh seafood that is delivered daily by local fishermen. The whole effect is bold, decadent, and unforgettable with a bucket list Santorini-sunset as your backdrop.

Doubles from £448 per night, check availability at booking.com and expedia.co.uk

Rosy’s Little Village, Agistri

A cluster of whitewashed buildings splashed with bright bursts of bougainvillea, hibiscus and geraniums, Rosy’s perches above a small rocky cove (grab a kayak to explore sea caves nearby). A family-run hotel serving simple but excellent food, the extensive menu at its terrace restaurant includes marinated anchovies, zucchini pie, rosemary lamb and glasses of local retsina, a salty-sweet wine made using pine tree sap. Best of all, freshly caught fish (sold by weight) includes sardines, red mullet and swordfish, all of which is simply grilled and served with organic vegetables grown on-site. Eat looking out across the Saronic Gulf towards the neighbouring island of Aegina.

Doubles from £82 per night, check availability at rosyslittlevillage.com

The Good Life, Syros

The villas and studios at this aptly named organic retreat each come with kitchens (help yourself to plums, peaches, figs and lemons from the farm to pep up your holiday breakfasts). Guests at The Good Life congregate around a large outdoor kitchen in the evenings to cook and share stories, and once a week they’re invited to join a (complimentary) communal dinner – think barbecued beef fillet with a range of pitta breads and salads – accompanied by generous amounts of Greek wine. Grapes in the vineyards are also used to distill juice for tsipouro (similar to Italian grappa), and guests are given a small bottle to take home with them.

Double villa from £182, check availability at booking.com

Kamarotí, Sifnos

Sensitively built within an ancient olive grove (not a single tree was cut down during construction), with views over the pretty village of Kastro and the Aegean Sea beyond, Kamarotí puts a surprisingly Spanish twist on its food (the hotel is owned by three Spanish brothers). Breakfast varies greatly: you might have Spanish omelette one day, and diced home-grown tomatoes with fresh local mizithra cheese and crushed melon seed juice the next. Dinner, served only in July and August, starts with a selection of tapas, and paella is on the menu once a week.

Doubles from £110, check availability at kamaroti.com

Villa de Loulia, Corfu

Named after owner Loukia’s grandmother, Loulia, who built this historic Italianate villa in 1808, Villa de Loulia houses nine elegant, colourful bedrooms and suites, plus a restaurant that serves old family recipes made from local, organic produce. Start the day by the pool with Loukia’s homemade zucchini pie or ravani orange and almond semolina cake, then explore the ancient village of Peroulades and its uncrowded beaches before heading back to Villa de Loulia for classic Corfiot dishes (including bourdeto: fish cooked in spicy tomato sauce).

Doubles from £108 a night, check availability at villadeloulia.gr

Milia Mountain Retreat, Crete

Set amid chestnut trees with the rugged mountainous beauty of the Kissamos region as a backdrop, Milia is a beautifully renovated collection of 15th-century stone buildings. All rooms have thick stone walls and their own fireplaces, making it perfect for cosy off-season stays, and the retreat is surrounded by an extensive network of hiking trails. The restaurant serves traditional Cretan “humble gastronomy”, such as wild greens soup and grilled aubergine spread, as well as roast baby goat, lamb with herbs, and bureki courgette pot pie cooked in a wood stove. Every Wednesday, guests can join a four-hour traditional Cretan cooking session in the kitchen.

Doubles from £75, check availability at milia.gr

Levendis Estate, Ithaca

Aussie-Greek couple Marilyn and Spero Raftopulos – plus their (grown-up) children, Kate and Niko – run this collection of four cottages plus swimming pool on Spero’s family homestead. It overlooks a bay in the north of the island and has been going for more than 30 years. Bathrooms come generously stocked with Levendis’ own natural skincare products, while cottage kitchens are pre-stocked with delicious Greek wine, olives and pistachios for that first holiday sundowner. Plus peach juice, bread, homemade jams, local thyme honey, freshly laid eggs and own-recipe muesli for the first morning’s breakfast. Click here for more places to eat and drink in Ithaca.

Check rates and availability at levendisestate.com

Mèlisses, Andros

A stylish, four-suite guesthouse, Mèlisses is a favourite with foodies thanks to its culinary host, Allegra Pomilio, an Italian with a passion for all things Greek. Every season she hosts a selection of retreats and workshops together with guest chefs and other creatives. Sign up and, in between learning how to cook tahini chocolate cookies, you might join an excursion to nearby waterfalls or to Palaiopoli, the ancient, partly-submerged former capital of the island. Suites have kitchens and sea views and are so dreamily decorated in shades of greys and blues that you’ll want to move right in. Guests gather in the open-plan kitchen for breakfast before heading down to the private bay, glass of homemade sour cherry lemonade in hand, for a morning dip.

Check rates and availability at melisses-andros.com

Ktima Lemonies, Andros

As the name suggests, the Ktima Lemonies estate on lush Andros is surrounded by lemon (and olive) groves. Start the day with syrup made from lemon tree flower petals (which owner Nelly carefully collects at dawn to avoid bees and to keep them fresh), served on bread or simply from the jar. Only breakfast is available, but making your own picnic lunch from the breakfast buffet is encouraged rather than frowned upon here, and you can enjoy a glass of the estate’s own wines or limoncello in the evening before heading out to one of the island’s many restaurants.

Check rates and availability at ktimalemonies.gr