Best restaurants in Marseille

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Restaurant 's terraces and coloured facades, Cours Honoré Estienne d'Orves

Where to eat and drink in Marseille: restaurants, cafés and bars

La Boîte à Sardine – for seafood lunches

This is Fabien Rugi’s place and it’s always the best spot to taste the region’s fish. It’s small and local, so sit back and enjoy what Fabien has to offer from the day’s catch, including calamari fried with Espelette pepper, red mullet with chickpea fries, sardines with herbs and fresh oysters. laboiteasardine.com

A busy restaurant with buoys hanging from ceiling

AM par Alexandre Mazzia – for Michelin-starred dining

My restaurant is tucked away on a residential street in Marseille. The cuisine is influenced by the city’s cosmopolitan side, combining the global influence of spices as well as the daily catch from our local fishermen. The menu is served in sequences of small dishes, which changes daily depending on that morning’s catch and harvest. It is a representation of myself and of Marseille, growing, changing and alive. Provence is known as the Garden of France due to its abundant and magnificent produce from the land, sea and mountains. At my restaurant we like to make the most of the fresh vegetables available locally, such as lettuce, tomatoes and aubergines, in a dish I call la biscotte végétale. alexandre-mazzia.com

Patisserie Sylvain Depuichaffray – for millefeuille

Join the queue to taste the best millefeuille in the world, including flavours such as green tea and strawberry or passion fruit and dark chocolate. sylvaindepuichaffray.fr

Marché La Plaine – for provençal produce

Marseille’s markets (such as La Plaine), with their produce and stallholder characters, play an important role in the lives of the city, from Fabien Gardon, a leading sustainable fisherman, to Geoffrey’s fresh herbs and Pistole’s fantastic selection of bonitos.

Café de l’Abbaye – for apéro

Aperitif or apéro is a common part of the drinking culture in Marseille – coming together over a drink to share stories and how your day was. Pastis, an aniseed-flavoured spirit, is the drink of choice and is deeply rooted in Marseille’s history. Many locals also opt for wine from Provence’s award-winning vineyards. Whatever you choose, the most important thing is to have eye contact when you cheers with ‘santé’. Head to atmospheric Café de l’Abbaye to join locals as they spill out onto the pavement to enjoy apéritifs with a view of the sun setting over the Vieux Port. Go Provençal and pair pastis with spiced chickpea fritters. facebook.com/lecafedelabbaye

Tables outside Cafe de L'Abbaye Marseille

La Bonne Mère, Didier et Brigitte, Le Tribeca and La Trattoria Del Sud Da Vincenzo – for pizza

With time, the city’s food culture has evolved to become trendier and more avant-garde. People want to have more choice and to socialise with a younger crowd, so the city has adapted and modernised. There are a lot more pizza places in Marseille now than when I first moved here, including Didier et Brigitte, Le Tribeca and La Trattoria Del Sud Da Vincenzo. La Bonne Mère is another local favourite, offering simple but flavourful toppings such as anchovies, cherry tomatoes and olives, gorgonzola and ham, or sun-dried tomatoes and pesto. pizzeria-labonnemere.fr

Saladin Épices du Monde – for spices

Marseille is a cosmopolitan city with influences from North Africa, Central Africa and strong elements of Provence. The city’s boulevards and alleys offer a glimpse into a multicultural tapestry, with Moroccan tea rooms, Tunisian pastry shops, various halal fast-food options and spice shops showcasing a diverse culinary heritage. Stock up on almost every spice imaginable at Noailles district’s Saladin Épices du Monde, including myriad salt and pepper varieties (we counted 46 of the former and more than 50 of the latter), Provençal herb mixes and lavender honey. salaedine-epices-monde.fr/

Chicoulon – for wine

At sleek wine shop Chicoulon, Edouard Mireur and his sister Fanny source unique bottles from France and beyond, as well as stocking their own red, white and rosé wines. It’s worth lingering for chef Tomi’s seasonal lunches, served in the shop’s pretty courtyard – think cod with greek yogurt and spiced potatoes, quail with roasted veg and fennel soup. chicoulon.com

Fish market – for fresh fish

Head to the Vieux Port (old port) – where superyachts bob alongside fishing boats. Here, at the small fish market (8am-1pm daily), species of alien- and not-so-alien-looking fish are sold from the calloused hands of those who caught them early the same morning.

Vanille Noire – for ice cream

At Vanille Noire get your hands on an almost mythical black ice cream made with vanilla and sea salt. Its maker, Nicolas Decitre, won’t reveal the recipe, but it’s said to get its colouring from algae. Whether that’s true or not, it’s sensational. vanillenoire.com

Les Navettes des Accoules – for navettes biscuits

At bakery Les Navettes des Accoules try navettes, biscuits shaped like little boats, local to Marseille, that are made without yeast and flavoured with fleur d’orange. You can buy bags of these as well as cucciole – crunchy, wine-scented biscuits from Corsica. les-navettes-des-accoules.com

Where to stay in Marseille

La Relève

This bar is a local institution in the vibrant Endoume district, a great spot to meet friends for an apéro. It makes some pretty amazing cocktails, too. Upstairs it has recently added four compact but very chic rooms. The yellow room has a sunny Provençal feel with mustard-tiled walk-in shower, earthy ceramics and pretty lampshades, while the blue room is designed to reflect the Mediterranean Sea, with blue and terracotta tones, raised vintage bathtub and a chess table.

Doubles from £131, check rates and availability at booking.com or larelevemarseille.fr

L’Hôtel Maison Montgrand

This hotel, café and shop in the Vieux Port makes a great central base for a visit. Sit in its colourful courtyard café and enjoy a gourmet ice lolly from local brand Emki Pop (flavours include autumnal apple and pear with tonka bean) or chef Baptiste Branche’s fresh, seasonal lunches including sea bream ceviche, chicken confit in masala spices and salted caramel Paris-Brest.

Doubles from £93, check rates and availability at booking.com or hotel-maison-montgrand.com

Day trips from Marseille

Les Goudes

The coastline surrounding Marseille is home to small fishing villages with traditional fisherman’s huts strung along the shore. I get my fresh fish for the restaurant from Les Goudes. It’s worth the short trip from Marseille to sample incredible fresh seafood and walk along Cap Croisette, where you can swim in the sea. It reminds me of Île de Ré, an island off the west coast of France. It’s where I spent most of my childhood, next to the sea and eating lots of freshly caught fish. Chez Paul serves fabulous fish caught daily, which make the cornerstone of its menu. The food makes you come alive, it feeds your soul and, for me, the nostalgia keeps bringing me back. Bar des Goudes is iconic, from the 100-year old tiled flooring to its owner, Didier Tani. From his voice, to his generosity, to his stories, you know this establishment is founded by a legend, and still delivers the same warmth of familiarity and passion around food as expressed by the man himself. It’s a legendary spot. grandbardesgoudes.fr

L'Estaque

L’Estaque, a town just west of Marseille, is known for chichis frégis. It’s a French street snack, similar to churros, made from deep-fried yeasted dough and chickpea flour then rolled in sugar. Sticky but worth the effort.

Calanques

One of the most beautiful parts of the coastline is Calanque de Sormiou as you can see for miles over the Mediterranean Sea, white sand beaches and towering hills. It’s a great place to swim in the clear waters or go for a hike through the landscape. Sormiou has a small number of fisherman’s cabins passed down by generations, which makes it very picturesque.

Maison Ferroni at Château de Creissauds

A beautiful distillery in the château estate where Guillaume Ferroni draws much of his inspiration from the research he conducts on the history of spirits. He combines this with intense creativity and a constant desire for innovation. Château de Creissauds is a beautiful place to walk around – if you pre-book he’ll guide you through a tasting of some of the spirits they produce. ferroni.shop

While you're in Marseille, make sure you try...

Bouillabaisse

Marseille has an abundance of seafood, and me and my fellow chefs put it in the spotlight in this popular seafood stew. Each is different but often includes monkfish, scorpion fish, spider crab and lobster bubbling away slowly in a saffron and tomato broth. We dish it out at the table and serve with croutons and mayonnaise. Locals eat this dish on a Sunday usually, because it takes such a long time to prepare and is enjoyed as a communal dish after church.

Herbes de Provence

The region is known for its herb mixes, with the most prevalent being fennel, marjoram, rosemary, tarragon and thyme. Some recipes also include basil, parsley, bay leaves, chervil, sage, oregano, mint and lavender to enhance the flavour of a dish, and give it the extra flavour of Marseille. These herbs go especially well with slow-cooked lamb and tomato tarte tatin.

Herbs of the Provence for sale at a farmers market in France

How to get to Marseille

Make the most of the generous baggage allowance and travel to Marseille by Eurostar. You can now go direct from London to Marseille on Eurostar in 6 hours, 49 minutes. Single train fares from London St Pancras to Avignon start at £55 (eurostar.com).

More info: marseille-tourisme.com and visitprovence.com