Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love

It's normal for hotels to produce their own honey, cheese and butter, smoke their own salmon and cure meat to make salami – some even make apple juice and roast coffee. As a result, every ingredient tastes sensational and changes throughout the country. Honey, for example, has a smoky, bitter flavour when taken from hives surrounded by heather, but has sweet notes of vanilla if collected from bees in the forest.

Fantastic foraging

There's a bounty of ingredients just waiting to be picked along Norway's rugged coastline, in the fjords and mountains, and in the forests. Many Norwegians believe foraging is vital as it stops all this food going to waste. There's even a law called “allmennhetens høstingsrett" which gives everyone the right to forage. Popular picks include lingonberries, blueberries, chanterelles, hedgehog mushrooms and ceps. Seaweed and kelp are plentiful, too. All these wonderful ingredients are used at home, in restaurants and in Michelin-star kitchens.

There are experts who forage for the top restaurants in Norway, and will take you on guided foraging tours. They can show you what's in season and ensure your safety. At Britannia Bar, head bartender Øyvind Lindgjerdet uses meadowsweet and pinecone vermouth to make their signature drink, Moonshine. It's fantastic.

Sustainability

Norway is rich in natural resources, so there's no need to rack up air miles to create delicious dishes. Chefs, like myself, start by looking as close as possible for ingredients and will always try to find a Norwegian replica, instead of importing from another country. I've discovered that instead of vanilla, we can use ground meadowsweet flower, and truffle seaweed is commonly used to give the same umami flavour as the fungus. All over the country, there are farmers who are passionate about growing fruits, vegetables and herbs, as well as producing meat and dairy, in a sustainable way. The goal is to live in harmony with nature and give back to the land.

Modern techniques

Chefs in Norway are open-minded and willing to experiment, especially in the Michelin-star restaurants, of which there are 14 in Norway. At Speilsalen, we like to push the boundaries of Norwegian cuisine. We take well-loved ingredients, like scallops and langoustines, and present them in mind-blowing ways. Recently, guests loved our glittering shell with langoustine and pumpkin.

Making the most of summer produce

When the long, dark winter turns to spring, there's a feeling of rejuvenation and excitement in the air here – we call this "Våryrhet." As light returns, the snow melts from the mountains, frozen fjords give way to waterfalls and things bloom and grow all over. Apples, strawberries, blackcurrants and raspberries burst into life – the flavour of these becomes intensely sweet and sharp over summer.

Many people take up outdoor activities like hiking, kayaking and foraging. In small fishing villages, like Veiholmen, there are communal barbecues for grilling the catch of the day. Local families gather together around tables to share meals and chat long into the night.

Preserving for winter

The Norwegian word "mørketiden" means the dark time. It refers to the time of year between November to January when night can last for up to 20 hours and, in some parts of Northern Norway, the sun doesn't rise for weeks. We will prepare for this during summer, that's when we salt, pickle and preserve the best of the season. Once the dark days roll in, we'll light a fire and invite a few friends over.

Sour, sweet and salty

What stands out about Norwegian cuisine is the intensity of flavours, created by our extreme climate. Chefs enjoy bringing these together and finding ways to enhance them even more. Think hasselback potato cooked in bacon fat with fermented and pickled gooseberries and sea urchin mayonnaise. Or silky creme brûlée topped with lip-smackingly tart sea buckthorn purée.

Dishes inspired by nostalgia

There's a distinct feeling of creativity in Norway that inspires chefs and home cooks, but we also draw from nostalgia. At Speilsahen, I draw inspiration from my childhood days spent in a fishing village where my grandmother would create dishes using what she had, such as oats and seasonal fruits. If you ask Norwegians about nostalgic food, they will urge you to try the warm pancakes filled with brown caramelised goat's cheese, served on the ferry. I prefer waffles and I make them at home, so I can enjoy them crisp and fresh.

We strive for the best

Not just in Michelin-star restaurants, this ethos filters down to every farmer and producer. To us, it means only settling for the most delicious, sustainable and top-quality food. From our bread, butter and cheese to caviar and seafood – we are always looking for ways to build on what we have.

Above everything, pride

So many of us are passionate about shaping and protecting Norway's food identity. It's why we use local produce whenever possible, forage to find flavour alternatives and eat with the change of the seasons. I truly believe Norwegian food is something to write home about – and something you'll be telling all your friends about when you get home.

Håkon Solbakk is executive head chef at Speilsalen, Britannia, where he's been since 2019. He helped the restaurant get its first Michelin star and recently won Nordic Chef of the Year in 2022. He grew up in a fishing village called Nærøysteine and likes to combine tradition with modern techniques in an elegant and playful way.

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