This quirky Kentish coastal town just up the way from Dover may be small, but it’s certainly mighty when it comes to the food on offer for locals and visitors alike. Once a renowned spot for smugglers, Deal has been something of a ‘best kept secret’ for those in the know, but these days its appeal - think stunning Georgian conservation area, colourful fishing boats, charming shingle beach and thriving independent high street - is well and truly on the radar for food lovers.

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Thanks to the ingenuity and creativity of its independent business owners, there is something to suit every budget, palate and occasion - from fresh oysters and exceptional bistro fare, to elegantly composed Japanese small plates or chilli-buzzed Caribbean barbecue. Here, long-time olive contributor and proud local food writer Rosie Birkett shares her run down of the most exciting places to indulge your tastebuds…

For more UK travel guides, check out our picks of the best restaurants in Broadstairs, best restaurants in the Cotswolds and the best restaurants in Margate.


Best places to eat and drink in Deal

Updown Farmhouse – the restaurant with rooms

Set in 7 acres of lovely grounds, Updown Farmhouse is just under a 15 minute drive inland (chauffeur driven transfers can be arranged here) from Deal in the verdant countryside that adjoins the town. Updown was converted from a private holiday residence into a restaurant with rooms a few years ago by design-savvy, dynamic hospitality duo Ruth Leigh and chef Oli Brown who also regularly welcome a roster of visiting guest chefs including the likes of Henry Harris and Tim Siadatan.

The gloriously restored red brick farmhouse dates back to the 17th century, and offers four smartly-appointed double rooms upstairs in the main house, a library and lounge downstairs, as well as further accommodation in the Gardener’s Cottage and sumptuously designed, art-filled Gatehouse. The restaurant itself is set in a beautiful, vine draped heated conservatory which spills out under the wondrous, wistaria-drenched pergola in summer. Running front of house is Leigh, who exudes an ease and charm that speaks to her family’s hospitality background (she’s the daughter of influential British chef Rowley Leigh), while Brown, who cooked with Leigh at Le Cafe Anglais before being head chef at Duck Duck Goose in Brixton, cooks seasonally-shifting menus of Italian-accented dishes that fly the flag for Kent produce. Working with local suppliers including Jenkins and Son and The Black Pig, he can be seen grilling over coals - think aged rib of beef to share with morels and wild garlic, or plating up ensembles like seabass crudo with chilli, Amalfi lemon and marjoram. updownfarmhouse.com

Updown Farmhouse

Pop Up Cafe – for coffee, viennoiserie and fabulous vegetarian cooking

Despite what the name suggests, this once temporary cafe on Deal’s bustling high street is a firm and favourite fixture, adored by locals and visitors alike who clamour for its precision made coffee (from nearby Margate’s exceptional local roastery Curve) and artisan pastries and bakes. Set up by visionary owner Hetty Pound over ten years ago, initially as a makeshift caff housed in a derelict shop, over the years it’s expanded and morphed into the community stalwart and thoroughly modern cafe it is today.

Together with partner Ben Royston-Bishop: a dab hand at brewing perfect coffees and baking the cafe’s excellent sourdough, Pound has created a hub where you can pick up a stunning sourdough croissant to eat on the go, or sit in to enjoy the delicious, wholesome and craveable vegetarian menu. We’re huge fans of the salad plate, with its rainbow of crunchy, zingy salads and homemade ferments, and also love its oozing cheese toasties made on signature sourdough - the cheese and kimchi is unmissable. popupcafe.co.uk

Pop up cafe

Jenkins and Sons – for seafood street food and fresh fish

Fourth generation fish monger Darren Jenkins has recently relocated his family’s legendary fish shop and poulterers to a larger premises where, as well as picking up fantastic quality, day boat caught fish and seafood, you can now also sit in for a freshly cooked seafood lunch and with a chilled glass of wine, or take it away to eat on the beach.

Browse the display window for shimmering local mackerel, sea trout and locally-caught shrimps. Darren is passionate about sourcing the very best, most seasonal and sustainable sea bounty he can – hence the fact he counts a multitude of acclaimed nearby restaurants (like Margate’s Sargasso and Updown Farmhouse) amongst his most loyal customers.

In-house chef Pete Keyes leads the energetic kitchen at lunchtime, turning out hot fishy delights such as fat scallops cooked in their shell with cherry tomatoes and handmade pesto, juicy prawn skewers and fish tacos. We’re massive fans of the seabass brioche, which, served with French fries and a wedge of lemon, makes a beautiful alternative to a classic fish and chip lunch. There’s also a freezer full of Keye’s carefully made creations, so you can stock up on homemade fish pie, chowder and lobster mac and cheese to heat up at home, too. jenkinsandsonfishandgame.co.uk/street-food-bar/


Hut 55 – for seaside picnics and coffee

The idea of a coffee and cake shack in a beach hut is a superbly simple one, but it’s anything but straightforward to pull off brilliantly, and it’s testament to the talents of founder, former journalist Kate Foreman and her small team, that they manage to do so on a daily basis (weather dependant). Perched in the wild fennel by Walmer’s picturesque promenade - a short stroll from Deal town centre - you’ll find carefully made coffees and lovingly crafted sweet and savoury treats to delight old and young. We’re talking cheerfully chewy cinnamon, oat and raisin cookies, and doorstep wedges of iced carrot cake vying for attention alongside ‘offensively large Scotch eggs’ and rather more elegant courgette and ricotta galettes.

‘The Hut’ is wonderfully family friendly, but it’s also a great spot for a moment of solo self care, boasting endless sea views, and you can spot France on a clear day from your pew on one of its comfy red and white striped deckchairs. There are vintage books for children to browse, as well as an old wooden boat for them to clamber on, and bespoke beach picnics can be ordered ahead (think nostalgic British classics like massive sausage rolls, filled baps and shortbread with clotted cream and strawberries), as well as organised swims, beach yoga sessions and bike hire for those who want to adventure on two wheels.

Foreman recently launched her ‘Sunday Sundowners’ summer evening sessions with a gorgeous menu of fresh seafood and fishy nibbles on offer along with a cleverly matched list of organic wines by the bottle. These evenings are the stuff British seaside dreams are made of - what could be more perfect than a chilled glass of Simpson’s British sparkling wine alongside some freshly shucked oysters? hut55.co.uk

Hut 55

The Blue Pelican – for Japanese small plates

Chef Luke Green spent recent years collaborating with Nuno Mendes on the menu at the acclaimed Rose hotel in the town centre, before settling in at this relatively new spot from the hotel’s owners, where he’s also drawing plaudits from national restaurant critics. Here, in the delightfully dinky, prettily painted former Georgian townhouse, he heads up an open kitchen of calm and concentration, drawing on his years of cooking in Japan to turn out beautifully balanced and inventive small plates centred around British produce.

Expect playful nods to Japanese izakaya and robata grill traditions in his delicious seasonal menu, with specials like Cornish sardines with fermented rhubarb, or whole quail karaage (crispy, golden fried quail) with tartar sauce. Bag a spot at the chef’s counter to get in close to the action, and watch Green and team bossing the grill, or sip a sake martini or glass of natural wine in the sun-drenched pocket courtyard at the back. There’s also a very well priced set menu for £23 on Thursday and Friday lunchtime. thebluepelican.co.uk

The Blue Pelican

The Black Pig – the beachside butcher

Nestled down a narrow lane just off the Deal’s High Street, Lizzy Douglas’ charming, award-winning butcher shop is flanked by hollyhocks in the height of summer, making it perhaps the prettiest butcher you’ll ever see. Inside, Lizzy has crafted a true haven for meat enthusiasts, with a focus on flavour and provenance. Alongside her small, skilful team — affectionately known as the "beefcakes" — Lizzy expertly handles the entire process, from breaking down whole sides of lamb, beef, and pork to curing bacon and creating an array of sausages and marinated meats, often featuring foraged and hyper-local ingredients like wild garlic and beach fennel to emphasise their connection to the local landscape.

In that same vein, all the meat comes from small, local free-range farms that uphold traditional methods, with animals processed at the last remaining nearby abattoir. This careful approach not only enhances the meat’s deliciousness, but supports the local farming community and rural economy, something Lizzy is passionate about and a philosophy which has earned her prestigious accolades, including a YBF award and the BBC Radio Four Food and Farming Award.

Lizzy is open, friendly and generous with her knowledge, often offering advice on interesting cuts and how to cook them, as well as running butchery courses that explore the craft in greater detail. theblackpigbutchers.com

Black Pig

The Zetland – the pub on the beach

A scenic walk or cycle from Deal is The Zetland Arms Pub in Kingsdown, a legendary and lively local boozer which was recently sensitively revamped by the owners of The Rose. With stunning sea views taking in colourful beach huts and the white cliffs of nearby St Margarets Bay, this coastal gem is the stuff of local legend: it’s been serving pints since 1863. More recent is the improved food menu which features hearty, seasonally-inflected delights such as fried whitebait with wild garlic mayo and mussels with Kentish cider, chilli and shallots, sitting aside pub grub classics like fish and chips and sirloin steak. zetlandarms.co.uk


Cherubs – the kitchen above a pub

Located just opposite Deal’s pier, The Bohemian pub has long been a spot for local revelry, including drag shows and live music, but more recently it’s become the site of some of the town’s best cooking, thanks to the talents of young chef Jakob Grant. Grant cut his teeth at nearby Sargasso in Margate and Henry Harris’ Bouchon Racine in London, and brings that stellar experience to the pub’s makeshift kitchen upstairs in his first solo venture, calling to mind The French House in Soho with its wooden floorboards and candlelit tables.

Grant, who, impressively, cooks solo with only the help of his kitchen porter, is constantly inspired by what he calls the “fantastic local produce” at his fingertips, using fruit and vegetables from local green grocer Blackberry and Lavender (also worth checking out), The Black Pig and Jenkins and Sons, and he’s not averse to a little bit of foraging either to add some hyper local details to dishes.

Sharing salivation inducing teasers of his seasonal creations on Instagram, Grant channels European flavours in dishes such as seared veal chop dressed with sage, brown butter and fresh, locally foraged summer truffle, or fig leaf infused panna cotta with macerated Kent cherries. We loved the grilled sardines with mojo verde and perfectly grilled lamb leg, tzatziki and chips. Due to its small size and one-man kitchen, booking is essential, so make sure you bag a table in advance. Cherubs takes bookings for dinner on Thursday and Friday, and lunch and dinner on Saturday. It will be opening up reservations for lunch on Fridays and Wednesday evenings from September. cherubs.resos.com/booking

Cherubs

Deal Pier Kitchen – the lunch spot with a view

Once home to a lacklustre fisherman’s cafe, the architecturally award-winning space at the bottom of Deal’s striking brutalist pier is now home to Deal Pier Kitchen, a locally-operated cafe and lunch spot that boasts unparalleled views of the sea and pretty Georgian town. Whether you fancy a slice of cake or Swedish cinnamon bun (expertly made by talented local bakers Kate Ampomah aka Eton Mess and Malin Hamilton aka Bygga Bo respectively) and cup of coffee, or a lobster and crayfish roll with skinny fries and a glass of Kentish fizz, you’ll find a warm welcome at this baby friendly, dog friendly spot.

Sit by the massive windows and eat with the sea surrounding you - you might even spot a seal or two. Queues are sometimes out the door for this place, but there’s plenty to look at while you wait, including watching local fishing enthusiasts reeling in mackerel or dogfish. On Friday and Saturday nights the space transforms into a candlelit restaurant with a dinner menu championing lobster and locally-sourced steak in their steak and lobster nights, and they also take bookings for bottomless brunches for groups. dealpierkitchen.com

Deal Pier Kitchen

Soul Chef – the Jamaican beach barbecue

Roving British Jamaican chef Dexter Thomas has recently taken up the reins in the kitchen at seafront pub The Port Arms, and cooks smoky, chilli-humming 24-hour marinated meat and fish in his jerk drum, serving it with rice and peas and homemade Soul Chef salsa. His flavour-filled menu draws heavily on his Jamaican heritage, resulting in a modern interpretation of many traditional flavours and dishes. Think fried prawns with mango and pineapple jam, or boneless, coconut crumbed fried chicken with sticky hot sauce alongside jerk pork with tropical salsa. For summer he and wife Gosia, who he runs Soul Chef alongside, have created an oyster and wing shack in the pub garden, barbecuing oysters from Jenkins and Son alongside scotch bonnet chicken wings. Brilliantly, Soul Chef also takes orders for take away, so you can enjoy his smoky, sticky creations on the beach too. soulchefkitchenyard.co.uk

Soul Chef

Arno and Co – for a delightful deli

Over the years Deal has cast its spell on many a Londoner who has dipped their toe in its fresh, salty waters only to be drawn down here permanently, and such is the case for Arno Karsten, founder of Deal’s most delightful deli. We first met Arno when he was working front of house at The Rose, commuting between Deal and London, where he’d spent decades working in iconic restaurants like Moro, Smiths of Smithfield and latterly Polpo. After falling in love with the town, he put down roots and opened his own place and Arno and Co was born, purveying culinary delights to cook at home, eat on the beach or stick in your larder for later. Karsten’s background in hospitality is evident in his easy charisma and warmth, and also in his eye for design and attention to detail.

The ‘and Co’ references the fact that Arno is passionate about the suppliers he uses to stock his shop, which is packed to the rafters with well-sourced goodies, from incredible preserves, artisan hot sauces and cold pressed extra virgin olive oil, to organic wines, gourmet crisps and artisan pasta. The fridges are full of tubs of grab and go goodies cooked up by in house chef Tim Lawton who works in the shop’s kitchen, rustling up freshly made versions of everything from taramasalata to tiramisu - all perfect for a beach picnic, and they do incredible focaccia sandwiches too.

The freezer is a treasure trove of meals, with South East Asian curries from the Rachel O Sullivan aka Rakooko and comfort food via Ruby’s Kitchen. Be warned though - so tempting is the selection that you’ll inevitably end up leaving with bagfuls of tasty treats you didn’t know you needed, but then can’t live without. instagram.com/arno_and_co

Arno & Co

The Frog and Scot – for small plates and fine wines

This Deal institution, owned by eponymous husband and wife duo Benoit Dezecot and partner Sarah Ross (who also run Le Pinardier wine bar and shop a few doors down), draws inspiration from the wine-led bistros of Paris, and offers small plates and cocktails as well as their well-selected list of organic and natural wines. Sit at the bar and have the bar person shake you a cocktail while you munch on smoked Marcona almonds, or bag a bistro table and settle in for a selection of small plates. We loved the homemade focaccia and whipped cod’s roe, and also the bayonne ham croquettes with green romesco and basil.

Burger Sundays run through the summer, offering a great value menu of gourmet burgers, perfect for enjoying with a bottle of the chilled Beaujolais. Whether you’re looking for a quick bite, or a full on feasting session, the menu has something to please everyone, and there’s also a heated terrace area out the front of the restaurant which is brilliant for people watching. frogandscot.co.uk

Frog & Scot

Where to stay in Deal

The Rose

What sets The Rose apart is the designers’ (Nicola Harding of Harding and Read and stylist Michelle Kelly) joyful use of colour, and their pleasing disregard for the muted tasteful tones that have become so popular in recent years.

Downstairs is a bar, restaurant and lounge full of bright vintage furniture, while upstairs are eight bedrooms, each painted in a unique bold hue, inspired by the bright beach balls and deckchairs of the local seaside, just a few steps away. None of the rooms are huge so tea, coffee and biscuits sit outside in the hallway for guests to help themselves when the mood strikes. Each is appealing in a distinct way but all have superbly comfortable beds and well-designed bathrooms.

Breakfast is particularly impressive at The Rose. There’s a relaxed vibe in the morning, with magazine and papers piled high and the menu chalked on a blackboard. Vegetarians can fill up on roast Swiss brown mushrooms, oregano, goats cheese and toast, while the Nordically inclined can opt for the Scandi breakfast plate – smoked salmon with avocado, egg, dill, whipped cream cheese and toast.

Doubles from £196, check availability at booking.com

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One of The Rose hotel's stylish rooms
One of The Rose hotel's stylish rooms

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