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New London restaurant openings

Claro, St. James's

East Mediterranean and Middle East-inspired sharing food

Puffy, fluffy frena bread is a great place to start, served with olives, labneh, harissa and the tomato, pepper, chilli and garlic delight that is matbucha.

The sharing menu speaks to careful sourcing – simple dishes made special by the quality of the ingredients, mirroring Claro’s original restaurant in Tel Aviv. Fried brussels sprouts with caper aïoli is a playful snack; tuna tartare is elevated with a yellow gazpacho sauce and zebra green tomatoes; a lettuce salad with radish and roasted walnuts is zingy with a piquant mustard and oregano vinaigrette; short rib tortellini with onion cream, chicken stock, parmesan and sage; and pork rib with romesco in caramel vinegar sauce are warm and comforting.

This is informal food to share in an impressive space, originally an historic banking hall – airy and glamorous with exposed brick and industrial-style beams softened by oversized light fittings and bold flower displays.

Classic cocktails are given a twist, such as the tequila-based, sweet/sour Tea Time, made with hibiscus, chilli iced tea and rose syrup. claro-london.com

Claro's interiors: originally a historic banking hall – airy and glamorous with exposed brick and industrial-style beams softened by oversized light fittings

Med Salleh Viet, Kensington

Vietnamese street food style dishes

Blink and you’d miss the entrance to this basement Vietnamese in Earl’s Court. But as you descend the stairs, a neon sign declares the restaurant ‘open’ and there’s a gentle buzz of diners tucking into street food style dishes.

Setting the scene, one wall of this brightly coloured blue and yellow dining room is dominated by an intricate artwork depicting a market in Hanoi.

In the kitchen is chef Syphong Lam, born in Ho Chi Minh City, who brings authenticity and modern flair to the menu: mango and prawn salad, and summer rolls wake up your taste buds with citrus and lime; chargrilled squid is presented whole then snipped with scissors at the table; and comforting bowls of pho see the fragrant broth poured from an enamel teapot over thinly sliced rare beef, shallots and herbs.

More highlights include ‘Husband Favourite’ lemongrass chicken with rice – sticky, glossy and served with pickles and veg. medsalleh.co.uk/viet-earls-court


Long Chim, Soho

Casual Thai from renowned chef

David Thompson’s bright pink book Thai Food is on every enthusiastic cook’s bookshelf. Now the Australian chef, with restaurants in Sydney and Bangkok, is back in London with a residency hosted in Rupert Street’s Hovarda, revamped with Thai murals and neon art. Order street food classics like skewers of spicy grilled squid, southern-style with pickled ginger; cockle salad with smoky chilli paste and thai basil; sweet crispy pork with five-spice; and curry of monkfish with cucumber relish. Watch a whole load of wok action in the open kitchen as you enjoy classic cocktails with a Thai twist, like coconut and lemongrass gimlet. The spontaneous will love its communal tables reserved for walk-ins. longchim.london

Long Chim by Leigh Griffiths

Bottarga, Chelsea

Greek sharing plates

On a corner spot on the King’s Road, this Greek restaurant is a visual treat: cleverly lit, with playful modern art. Lovingly sourced ingredients in hero dishes ensure food is the focus, best enjoyed at a counter seat along the open kitchen. Silky taramasalata is topped with cod’s roe; anchovies served with sheep’s milk butter and slivers of crisp flatbread are a must-order; signature dish bottarga orzo is creamy and rich, perfectly paired with lamb and a superior Greek salad with caper leaf, barrel-aged feta and rusks. While chef Tzoulio Loulai sources ingredients from his homeland, the menu is not slavishly Greek: chocolate burnt cheesecake and salted caramel is a big hit on Instagram. A Greek house soundtrack ensures a buzzing atmosphere. bottarga.london


Wildflowers, Belgravia

Stylish restaurant and wine bar with a Med focus

Partners Laura Hart, whose background is in interior and floral design, and chef Aaron Potter, have created a space that’s welcoming and stylish in equal measure. Med-inspired dishes are cooked over coal in an open kitchen, cocktails are imaginative twists on classics (try a melon negroni or almost-dirty martini) and its understated design encourages you to relax and linger over your food. The menu includes little intrigues like Romeo & Juliets (cheese and quince one-bites) and the best versions of trending dishes like sugar pit pork chop, Galician ex-dairy ribeye with smoked bone marrow rice and fior di latte gelato – a soft serve that’s reminiscent of Wimpy, in the best possible way. Upstairs the light-filled wine bar offers a decent selection by the glass and Italian-style snacks, making it an ideal place to swing by when shopping at nearby King’s Road or Pimlico Road’s upscale interior design quarter. wildflowersrestaurant.co.uk

Wildflowers - Ribeye with Bone Marrow Rice - Rebecca Dickson copy

The Blue Stoops, Notting Hill

Allsopp’s brewery’s pub

Allsopp’s has opened a lively pub near Notting Hill Gate, named for its original site in Burton on Trent. Overseeing the food is Lorcan Spiteri, whose menu is hale and hearty – chicken, leek and mushroom pie; Old Spot pork chop; chips and mash – punctuated with more trend-aware choices like anchovy toast, pressed potatoes with mussel velouté and pistachio tart. Along with cask ales, a short aperitif list includes artisan British drinks like Artemis red vermouth, Smith Hayne cider and Hepple gin. Décor is classic pub, which vintage beer signs and a blackboard of daily specials. thebluestoops.com

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AngloThai, Marylebone

Twist-on-Thai pop-up to permanent

John and Desiree Chantarasak’s pop-up – teaming bold Thai flavours using seasonal ingredients sourced in Britain, with a European-focussed wine list – has now taken root in this permanent site. Combining inspiration from both his Thai and British heritage, chef John creates sharing dishes with seasonal fruit and veg, foraged foods, British-grown Asian produce such as holy basil, young ginger root, makrut lime and chillies; slow-grown meat from Ryalls farm in Dorset and a little luxe in the form of British caviar and Carlingford oysters. A European wine selection speaks to co-founder Desiree’s commitment to handcrafted wines including biodynamic bottles from a new generation of winemakers. Opens 11th November. anglothai.co.uk

AngloThai Blythburgh Chop, Pork Fat & Smoked Chilli Relish (1) copy

Kricket, Canary Wharf

Modern Indian moves east

The hot seats are along the vivid red counter which stretches the length of the modern Anglo-Indian restaurant group newbie. Bhel puri, that colourful Mumbai street food, is sweet, tart and crunchy; Keralan fried chicken with pickled mooli is a Kricket classic; pickled cucumber is a good foil to a glossy poussin ghee roast; and grilled squash with paneer and puffed rice is served in a rich sauce to be scooped up with chilli cheese naan. Aromatic cocktails include no-booze versions like Kashmiri Adrift, a refreshing blend of lime and agave spiked with chilli salt and served over ice, while adjacent late-night Soma bar serves the harder stuff. kricket.co.uk

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Tamarind Terrace, Mayfair

All-weather terrace Indian dining

This new, all-weather terrace is an entirely new restaurant within Tamarind Mayfair, a stalwart of London’s upmarket Indian dining scene. Its Insta-friendly décor, dominated by the retractable roof’s gorgeous fabric awning and soft hued pink and green colour scheme, can’t pull focus from the food which balances lighter salads and seafood with flavour-packed grills and curries. Coconut and chilli seabass with salmon roe and crispy lobster tossed in chilli jam and served in its shell are as pleasing to the eye as to the palate; lamb chops in a pistachio crust and Mangalore prawn curry are judiciously spiced; desserts like dark and light chocolate mousse bar is elevated with an almond and coriander praline. Cocktails are equally pretty and punchy. tamarindrestaurant.com


Sael, St James’s

All-day dining using the best of British ingredients

Named for an old English word meaning ‘season, time and occasion’, Jason Atherton’s all-day restaurant in St James’s Market is a celebration of British heritage. The high-shine space and flexible menu combine comfort with glamour, and work equally well for a quick one-course lunch or a long celebratory dinner. Elevated classics include snacks like Marmite English custard tarts and tempura oysters with Sarson’s scraps; snail and ox cheek lasagne; chicken pie for two; and roly poly with Jersey custard and smoked butter. Upstairs bar Apples & Pears has moody lighting and guest DJs along with well-mixed, reasonably priced cocktails. saellondon.com

Sael

Sesta, Hackney

Relaxed neighbourhood restaurant with low-intervention wines

The east London vibes are strong at this neighbourhood restaurant near Hackney Central: natural wines, quirkily cool artwork, youthful and knowledgeable team. The tiny kitchen knocks out superb seasonal dishes with both British and Med influences: coastal cheddar and cider scones, the must-order ’nduja scotched olives, beef ragu toastie, brown sauce and pickled onion. Share prawn and stone bass dolmas with ouzo butter; slow grilled Yorkshire chicken leg stuffed with bacon and wild blackberry; Romaine with green goddess dressing and crispy skillet potatoes with thyme mayo. While the menu is updated as the seasons change, there will usually be a version of sticky toffee pudding such as sticky plum skillet cake. sesta.co.uk

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The Barbary, Notting Hill

Counter-dining with a Southern Europe and North African flavour

At night this welcoming corner site on Westbourne Grove literally glows, as much due to its warm colour scheme and clever lighting as its lively open kitchen where chefs cook over fire. Grab a counter seat to watch heat-packed dishes prepared: Kapia pepper and feta brulée; house-made merguez; whole chilli cauliflower. More Southern Europe to North Africa (Barbary Coast) influences are seen in scallop aquachile; coffee-rub chicken; pata negra pork chop and crispy saffron rice. Cocktails – smoked pineapple paloma; saffron negroni – show imagination and match up to the menu’s punchy flavours. thebarbary.co.uk/notting-hill


Marceline, Canary Wharf

Classic brasserie on the water

London’s love affair with France continues with chef Rob Aikens’ brasserie at the increasingly foodie destination of Wood Wharf. From breakfast to dinner, expect well-executed classics like warm cheese soufflé, French onion soup; rotisserie chicken with a rich, glossy jus and the standout, sweet-meets-savoury dish, sugar-pit bacon chop with charcuterie sauce. All desserts are Instagram-worthy, from a shiny crème caramel to cookie crust and banana profiteroles. Cocktails feature a classic French martini no 5 to a punchy absinthe sour. marceline.london

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Lahpet Larder, Bermondsey

An introduction to authentic Burmese flavours

Named from the Burmese for pickled or fermented tea with a nod to the history of Bermondsey, once known as London’s larder, this is the latest addition to Dan Anton and Zaw Mahesh’s growing empire. Adding to existing sites in London’s Shoreditch and West End, the new opening draws influence from the duo’s Burmese heritage and love for Myanmar’s rich produce. The menu highlights both classic and regional culinary styles, utilising some ingredients imported directly from Myanmar. With a frontage of large sash windows that open onto the buzzing Bermondsey Street and interiors that intertwine sleek modernity against a refined industrial backdrop, it’s a perfect introduction to a cuisine that is as rich in history as it is flavours. lahpet.co.uk

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Goodbye Horses, Islington

Natural wine bar with superior bar snacks

Seats around the bar at this north London local are in high demand as a young, creative crowd quiz the front-of-house team on how to fill their glass: it’s fun to try new low-intervention wines, mainly from small producers across Europe. Start with a softly sparkling rosé while you decide how to graze for an hour or two. Imaginative pairings on the plate range from oysters with strawberries, beef tartare with fennel flowers, clams with courgettes to a three-cheese toastie with leeks. Bright and airy during the day, the space houses a coffee shop and there’s an ice cream gelato shop directly opposite. At night the soundtrack comes from the comprehensive vinyl selection prominently displayed at the entrance, as well as groups – of friends and strangers – on communal tables making new friends and wine discoveries. goodbyehorses.london

Goodbye Horses, Islington

Kolamba East, Spitalfields

Modern Sri Lankan sharing dishes

There is one dish on Kolamba East's menu that alone is worth a visit. Moor king prawn string hopper biryani is a version of the classic like no other: delicate threads of rice noodles cushioning plump prawns, over which you pour a fiery aromatic gravy. It’s made to share but you’ll be fighting over the last nugget. But it’s far from the only star. The menu is different to its Soho sister, showcasing a more refined, modern take on Sri Lankan cuisine, with an emphasis on small plates and sharing dishes. Set in a Grade II listed warehouse, the design is inspired by Colombo culture, integrating handmade dining chairs, lotus table lamps and prints of water buffalo on the exposed brick walls. Try a cocktail – the Pol Mezcalita is delicious coconut twist on the original – then start with black pork 'mas paan', a bun stuffed with slow-cooked black pork curry, served with pineapple chutney, and melt-in-the-mouth hot butter soft shell crab. From the mains, whole rib jaggery beef, sweet and spicy, flakes off the bone in juicy strands. And, as you’d expect, there is a variety of sides and sambols to accompany. Complete the feast with a Sri Lankan classic CBP – Colombo biscuit pudding. kolamba.co.uk/kolamba-east

Kolamba East

Leydi, City

Generous Turkish sharing plates

In the hands of chef Selin Kiazim, the new Turkish restaurant at The Hyde hotel is a sure-fire success. Taking inspiration from the vibrant culture and cooking scene of Istanbul, dishes are generous and designed to share, so work best when there are three or more of you. Start with a mountain of lavash and pide to dip into meze of smoked aubergine, tarama with chives, spiced tomato ezme with pomegranate molasses, then move onto lamb lahmacun (sometimes nicknamed Turkish pizza, with its extra-thin base) and börek: filo pastry filled with feta, leeks and truffle honey. The main event is a mixed grill of chicken and lamb shish and doner, with more pide to collect the juices, buttered rice and a chopped salad. Kunefe is the dessert highlight: the sweetness of the pistachio-studded pastry doused in orange blossom syrup is balanced with goat’s milk vanilla ice cream. The room is softly lit, with walls adorned with Turkish art and Istanbul street scenes. https://hydehotels.com/london-city/restaurants-bars/leydi-restaurant/

Leydi

Lolo, Bermondsey

All-day, mainly Spanish dining with British and French touches

olive favourite José Pizarro has opened an all-dayer next to his tiny tapas bar José on Bermondsey Street, adding a few British and French elements to the menu. Breakfast on baked eggs with chorizo, croissants or kouign-amann. Snack on devilled eggs with anchovy, ham and cheese bikinis (bite-size sandwiches) with a cava, albariño or sherry, or try more substantial British cheeseboard or pork stew with mash. The room is warm and welcoming in pink tones, and with a stunning British art including pieces by Tracey Emin and Norman Ackroyd. josepizarro.com

Lolo

Mamapen, Soho

London’s only Cambodian pops up in Soho

This lively pop-up is currently the only place to eat Cambodian in London. Chef Kaneda Pen’s classic and contemporary cooking is inspired by his mother, his love of BBQ and his Scottish partner. So sour pineapple curry with roasted sweet potato and pickled mango; and Khmer BBQ chicken with shaoxing teriyaki glaze with tuk trey koh kong dipping sauce, sit alongside braised beef tattie mince noodles with cucumber, spring onion and chilli. Lunchtime specials for takeout keep local workers happy. Find it until the end of the year in one of Soho’s busiest pubs. http://sunand13cantons.co.uk/cambodian-food-london

London Food and Drink Photography - Mamapen at Sun and 13 Cantons London 2024 - Nic Crilly-Hargrave-102 copy

Cornus, Belgravia

Quietly luxurious special-occasion dining

Luxe meets comfort in dishes like spaghetti with native lobster topped with a generous spoon of caviar; Landes milk and maize-fed chicken with Scottish langoustine, sweetcorn and roast chicken sauce; and brown sugar custard tart. Impeccable cooking from chef Gary Foulkes who joins a stellar cast of hospitality pros in this airy, grown-up, rooftop space – there’s plenty of room between tables, starched linen, two terraces, contemporary art and an extensive wine list, many by the glass – tucked away in Eccleston Place near Victoria. The combination of restraint and friendly service makes this a very London fine dining experience. One to add to your special occasion hitlist. cornusrestaurant.co.uk

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AGORA, Borough Market

Agora means 'market' in Greek, which reflects the casual, buzzy style of David Carter's ground-floor restaurant below his hot opening OMA. Punters can soak up Borough Market’s buzz at window perches or sit inside the contemporary space that offers a layer of Greek taverna warmth thanks to the handmade rotisserie’s open flames.

Order a frozen margarita or paloma pepped up with lemongrass syrup while perusing the Mediterranean food menu. Flame-grilled bread, brushed with garlic butter, is perfect dipping material for fermented chilli erzu-topped tahini and silky hummus laden with hot crisp shards. The flatbread twist on a spanakopita is a must-order, it's graviera cheese layered with buttery, dill-flecked spinach and finished with grated parmesan and paprika crisps. Sardines are served simply with za'atar and a squeeze of lemon, while mushrooms skewers are given umami treatment with spring onion, soy and mirin. Turkish chilli and crispy capers add texture to braised fava beans and a crunchy cucumber and radish salad is brightened with sumac and lemon vinaigrette. Rotisserie stars include chicharron-style pork belly served with vibrant green herb, cornichon and pickled chilli sauce. There's only one dessert – a tiramisu that holds its own paired with a plum and mezcal margarita. agora.london

A selection of plates at AGORA restaurant including anchovy flatbread and hummus

The Pig’s Ear, Chelsea

Friendly local with elevated pub food

The new incarnation of the pub that’s been around since 1870 focusses on all the good stuff: oysters, Sussex beer, wine from owners the Gladwin brothers’ Nutbourne vineyard and seasonal veg from their farm, pies, hearty Sunday roasts. Snacks to kick off are a little more refined: devilled quail’s eggs and signature mushroom Marmite eclairs borrowed from the Gladwins’ other restaurant menus, and alongside comfort puddings is the must-order bun filled with meadowsweet cream and salted caramel. The curated set menu pairs six seasonal dishes with Nutbourne, French and Italian wines. Eat in the chandeliered but informal and cosy bar or the more sedate upstairs dining room. pigsearpub.com

The Pig's Ear

Belvedere

Smart Italian in the park

Belvedere, a west London institution with its picture-perfect home in leafy Holland Park has had a glow-up thanks to new chef Lello Favuzzi. Now the menu matches the majestic surroundings with turbot, langoustine and caviar all making a play for your attention. Taking influences from his Italian roots and using carefully sourced ingredients from Italy and the UK, this is food to be savoured slowly, either on the terrace overlooking the park or inside the grand dining room. But stuffy it isn’t – go for pappardelle or a pizza, too, albeit topped with truffle. Highlights are Welsh lamb, lobster linguine for two and Lello’s tiramasu. Wines offered by the glass and carafe encourage experimentation, with English and orange wines joining Italian and French classics. belvedererestaurant.co.uk

Belvedere

Jang

Creative twists on Korean and Japanese dishes

Jang sees head chef Dana Choi elevating Korean and Japanese dishes with bold and creative twists in this glamorous 1920’s inspired City venue at the Royal Exchange. Highlights include Korean steak tartare, yuk hwe spiked with gochujang; K BBQ – dry-aged sirloin with sea salt in perilla oil, wasabi butter, chimichurri, salted pollock roe and two types of jangajji, a chilli and a cherry tomato. Don’t miss the Bossam Tower: iberico pork belly bossam, slowly cooked in a doenjang broth, with oyster, endive kimchi and ssamjang; and a stunning sushi and sashimi display. The space is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday. Sister bar Engel serves imaginative twists on vintage cocktails. jangrestaurant.co.uk

Jang

Caviar Kaspia

For caviar decadence

Unique in terms of vibe and menu, an international crowd flock to this former private club now open to everyone who can afford its luxe offering. Decadent in every way, the jewel box room with dramatic artwork hums with anticipation as champagne flows and diners browse the menu of caviar-topped dishes. Highlights include tagliolini in a champagne cream sauce and Instagram-friendly, completely indulgent – and delicious – baked potato, designed to savour and share. There’s tableside service in a smoked salmon and blini starter, two oversized blinis draped with salmon and sandwiched together with crème fraîche. Pudding features a cocoa sponge with ricotta, served in a caviar tin and topped with beads of coffee ‘caviar’. caviarkaspialondon.com

caviar kaspia

Akira Back, Mayfair

Playful riffs on Japanese cuisine

Akira Back, well known in the USA for his playful approach to Japanese cuisine, is influenced by both his travels and Korean heritage. Dishes are made to share and flavours are bold. Try the signature tuna sashimi pizza, rich with truffle oil; mini tacos filled with wagyu bulgogi; rock shrimp with creamy gochujang; black miso cod; and finish with sushi rolls like Hot Mess – sashimi poke, crab tempura and spicy ponzu aïoli. A lighter starter of yellowtail jalapeño with citrussy yuzu, is a highlight. On the inventive wine list try Smiley NV, a South African chenin blanc blend which pairs well with sushi. The triple-height room, with one wall dominated by spectacular artwork by Akira’s mother, and glass ceiling, makes it light-filled at lunch, twinkling at night. mandarinoriental.com/en/london/mayfair/dine/akira-back

Akira Back

Plates, Hoxton

High-end vegan

Siblings Kirk and Keeley Haworth have created a one of a kind menu and vibe at this entirely plant-based Hoxton restaurant. Each dish combines highly seasonal, sustainable, occasionally unfamiliar ingredients which makes a fun journey of discovery. A tasting menu kicks off with – depending on the season – hibiscus and white tea granita with a beetroot and buckwheat truffle, savoury but surprisingly the exact texture of a rich chocolate treat. Laminated sourdough has both crunch and flakiness, served with a vibrant spirulina butter. You might recognise ‘lasagne’ from Kirk’s win on Great British Menu – his deconstructed version combines an umami-packed ragu with a miso and chive sauce. There’s no refined sugar but plenty of flavour in cacao gateaux with sour cherry, coconut blossom ice cream and caramel sauce. Low-intervention wines and cocktails are equally inspiring. Book a seat at the counter for a ringside view. plates-london.com

Plates

Cloth, City

Great value weekday dining

A lunchtime set menu (£24 for two courses) and wines that start at £7 a glass makes this wine bar cum restaurant on Cloth Fair in the City a great value choice. Small plates include rabbit and bacon terrine, sea bass crudo with fennel and orange, and scallops with garlic parsley butter. There’s always a risotto, generously dressed pasta, carefully sourced chop and fish or the option to choose Longhorn sirloin to share – with a side of chips with espelette pepper. Learn from Cloth’s young and knowledgeable team who’ll suggest wine choices for each dish or a bottle to carry you through – about half the wines are made by friends of the owners. The space (open Monday to Friday) includes two cosy, character-packed rooms and a wine bar if you just fancy a glass of fizz and some oysters. clothrestaurants.com

Cloth

Nanyang Blossom, Knightsbridge

Creative cooking from Southern China

Taking inspiration from the Nanyang region (Southern China, Malaysia and Indonesia), chef Daren Liew’s creates dishes as pleasing to the eye as to the taste buds. Prawn toast is reimagined using edamame to add colour and almonds for extra crunch. Two premium signatures include luxe ingredients: Deluxe Hokkien ‘stir-fry’ of wild prawns, abalone (a lightly sweet and salty delicacy) in a prawn stock with bottarga powder and egg; and Miyazaki beef with small plates including a piquant pickled okra. Sea bass is grilled with turmeric and ginger flower with blue pea rice. With clever lighting and panelled walls, the small dining room shimmers. Attentive service (and high prices) reflect its Knightsbridge location. nanyangblossom.co.uk

Nanyang Blossom

Dream X'ian, Tower Hill

Guirong Wei is synonymous with Xi’an dining in London, and her most recent opening is an unlikely neighbour to the Tower of London. The glass-fronted space is simply decorated with Chinese murals and lanterns, and staff weave between tables, topping up citrussy pomelo or green tea. The extensive menu is split into handy sections. Cold starters include chicken sliced into a chilli sesame oil bath with shredded ginger, while frilly wood ear mushrooms and pickled green chillis are doused in Chinese vinegar. There’s a strong selection of dim sum, too: think soup dumplings, steamed pork and chive parcels and wontons in chilli oil. Metre-long, hand-pulled noodles come tossed in garlic and crunchy pak choi. For a sweet finish, glutinous rice cakes are like a mochi-churros hybrid to dip into treacly brown sugar sauce. dreamxian.co.uk

Dream Xian

Mambow, Clapton

Modern Malaysian dishes

Abby Lee has become eponymous with Malaysian cuisine in London. After years of pop-ups and a street-food outpost in Peckham, the chef opened a bricks-and-mortar space in northeast London. It’s a casual spot complete with pretty, mismatched tiles, bench seating and a lively soundtrack. Half of the small space is dedicated to an open kitchen, where Abby and her team dart between simmering pots and sizzling pans to create fiery, fragrant modern Malaysian dishes. Highlights include the signature lor bak – five spice pork encased in crisp, frilly beancurd, deep-fried stone bass steak in a lively Nyonya-style tamarind curry sauce and sticky, double-roasted pork belly pieces coated in a silky kecap manis caramel glaze, served with blue rice (to match Abby’s fabulous hair colour). There’s only one dessert option, but it has plenty going for it – a bright green pandan pancake filled with brown sugar and desiccated coconut, served with coffee ice cream. There’s a succinct natural wine list as well as Malaysian twists on classic cocktails. The floral, thirst-quenching Juice Box softens the heat from the spicier dishes, while the 100+ Sour is a refreshing concoction of gin, coconut liquor, miso syrup and blackberry. mambow.co.uk

Abby Lee with blue hair stood outside her restaurant Mambow

Apollo Arms, Clapham

Elevated pub classics

A burger, fish and chips, and steak are as essential to a pub as real ale on tap. This smart Clapham Old Town pub has all these but better – think brioche bun and burger sauce, beer-battered haddock and flat iron with tripe-cooked chips. It also knocks out an Aussie-inspired chicken parmigiana with celeriac and apple remoulade, and basil mayo, a zingy hoisin-glazed crispy duck salad with mooli, pomegranate and grapefruit, and short rib with creole coleslaw and red eye gravy. Special nights encourage regular guests who flock to the beer garden in summer months and the cosy book-lined bar after dark; Monday is curry night; Wednesday is for steak. Bar snacks vary from Brit classics like scotch eggs and sausage rolls to Korean popcorn chicken with gochujang. The wine list is also a cut above your regular boozer with plenty at the heftier end and a good choice by the carafe from £15. apolloarms.co.uk

Apollo Arms

Ibai, City

French Basque-inspired cooking

The must-order here is Galician Blond sirloin. This marbled and richly flavoured steak from older cows is currently imported from north-west Spain, while Ibai’s owners start the lengthy process of breeding cattle in the UK, believing diners prefer to eat meat sourced here (British wagyu is also available). Cooked simply over charcoal the steak is served with hand-cut chips, anchovy and chilli salsa, red wine sauce or Ossau-Iraty cheese and black pepper. Other menu highlights are sweet carabinero prawn tartare; Noir de Bigorre ham with crisps and smoked Piparra peppers, and gateau Basque, an almond cream filled buttery tart. From the team behind restaurants Lurra and Donostia in Marylebone, this City outpost is bigger and bolder, in a vast industrial space once occupied as a lino factory, now softened with cosy booth seating and an impressive cellar. ibai.london

Ibai

Oma, Borough Market

Greek island-inspired crudo and clay pot centrepieces

From our pro reviewer KS Tong: 'The menu at Oma begins with a sneaky hero in the form of the wood-fired laffa flatbreads and açma verde (akin to a bagel twisted with wild garlic). These are made on-site in the basement bakery with wild-farmed British grains under the direction of Eyal Schwartz (the former head baker at cult favourite bakery E5 Bakehouse) to go with a selection of house spreads, including a salt cod XO labneh that was pure heaven.

I could’ve easily just stopped here, via a few samples from the 23-page-strong wine list featuring 450-plus predominantly Greek producers, and left content. But to miss the crudo menu would be criminal (the name Oma draws from the Greek word for ‘raw’ after all) – and yellowfin tuna with zesty clementine ponzu and crispy garlic certainly delivered. Small plates of lobster bisque börek and spanakopita gratin, and skewers of dry-aged Cornish lamb chop (from renowned high-quality, high-welfare supplier The Cornwall Project) were a sensory slam dunk, each thoughtfully curated and purposefully executed.

But the real centrepieces are the bigger clay pots, and the oxtail giouvetsi served with bone marrow and beef fat pangrattato was a worthy dish – rich, heavy and a striking contrast to the rest of the menu, which is much fresher and lighter. It’s the perfect dish to set you up for dessert, where the sticky date pudding is not to be missed and pairs nicely with an Oma negroni.' oma.london

Oma London

TOU, Borough Market

Pet Nat wines paired with Japanese-inspired finger food

Located above the Globe Tavern in the heart of bustling Borough Market, TOU is the capital’s latest answer to the perfect weekend tipple. Open from Thursday to Sunday, the restaurant offers Pet Nat wines alongside a compact menu of Japanese-inspired snacks. For the uninitiated, Pet Nat is short for Pétillant Naturel, a traditional sparkling winemaking technique. Whether this is already your favourite drink or you’re a first-timer, TOU’s knowledgeable front of house staff will lead you through the extensive selection on offer.

Wooden floorboards, exposed brick and an open kitchen offers a modern backdrop for TOU’s wines and short menu, which is made up of snacks meant to be enjoyed by hand. While the house pickles of daikon and carrot provide a welcome fresh hit, the Iberico katsu sando is the star of the show: a perfectly crispy Iberico pork fillet is nestled between toasted brioche alongside fresh cabbage, with raspberry and XO shallot sauces providing just the right amount of sweetness. If you can, save room for pudding – the coffee and biscuits sundae is the perfect sweet treat. tou-london.com

Tou

Akara, London Bridge

Contemporary West African dining

Akoko’s more casual off-shoot lies in Borough Yards’s refurbed railway arches. Light pours into the contemporary space, where vibrant artwork is framed by whitewashed enclaves set into brick walls.

Owner Aji Akokomi puts the spotlight on the namesake akara dish. This crisp, fluffy black-eyed bean fritter is stuffed with barbecue celeriac or prawns, served elegantly on a stone cube. Snacks include fried chicken nuggets with sosu kaani sauce and springy rice pancakes, with a hibiscus-flecked black-eyed bean hummus. Spiced coconut rice, a dish originating in southern Nigeria’s Efik communities, is served in a pot with a wooden spoon to scoop onto the side of mains. Slices of 24-hour slow-cooked short rib are topped with a Nigerian peanut-based sauce, and cabbage is cooked over charcoal until meltingly soft, then served with a vibrant Ghanaian abunu abunu (green green) sauce. Desserts hold their own – coconut and lime sorbet is creamy and zingy, while chocolate mousse is elevated with banana caramel and feuilleutine wafer crackers. A Ghanaian pineapple and passion fruit spirit is combined with rum, hibiscus and citrus for a tropical rum punch, while cacao-infused Campari and date vermouth lend richness to the negroni. akaralondon.co.uk

Akara

NIJŪ, Mayfair

Japanese steak and sushi with a contemporary edge

Endo Kazutoshi, arguably London’s most esteemed sushi master, is behind this new Mayfair Japanese grill, with exec chef Chris Golding overseeing the menu day to day. Careful sourcing, luxe ingredients and well-honed kitchen skills create a unique menu inspired by ‘Katei Ryōri’: homecooked, seasonal dishes, some – like dover sole, asparagus and nori butter – served tableside. Wagyu, that most highly-prized beef, is sourced from Japan and England, cooked simply over Japanese charcoal and offered with fresh wasabi and yuzu salsa verde. Sashimi includes indulgent cuts like otoro (fatty tuna) served classic style or with a contemporary NIJŪ twist – ‘aburi’ (seared) with caviar. Vegetables are treated with equal care, from grilled aubergine with white sesame dressing to spicy spinach with sobacha (buckwheat tea). A sushi counter and glass panel revealing all the kitchen action add to the buzzy atmosphere. The basement Nipperkin bar uses British ingredients, some grown and distilled on site in its hyper-seasonal cocktail list. nijulondon.com

Niju

The Brush Grand Café, Hoxton

All-day dining featuring European classics with a backdrop of street art

Hoxton’s new art’otel’s hub is this bright, airy restaurant, knocking out the kind of uncomplicated food we fancy eating everyday: salads nicoise and caesar; crisp flatbreads topped with ’nduja, basil and mozzarella; schnitzels made with veal or aubergine; decent burgers, meatballs and moules frites. Lots of skill in the pastry section, too: Basque cheesecake and a strawberry éclair show a lightness of touch. Cocktails include 50 Shades of Champagne with an intriguing champagne ‘air’ garnish (a delicate foam). Graffiti-style murals by British artist D*Face are another compelling reason to visit. thebrushhoxton.co.uk

The Brush Cafe

Crispin at Studio Voltaire, Clapham

An art space where seasonal food is the main attraction

This new outpost joins Soho’s Bar Crispin and the original Spitalfields restaurant to bring its well-respected brand of casual, seasonal cooking to Clapham. Housed in an arts institution and gallery, the functional space – whitewashed brick walls, stainless steel counters, specials blackboard and simple wooden seating – serves imaginative, well-priced smaller plates to start or share, such as confit tomatoes with almond cream and pickled wild garlic; charred leeks with yogurt and salsa; grilled mackerel, cucumber, sour dill; and the kind of mains you could eat every day: grilled chicken leg, borlotti beans and ’ndujaa and breaded pork. Brown butter cake with rhubarb and fennel seed and custard tart will convert even the most ardent pudding refuseniks. Wines focus on smaller producers and a drinks list includes just one or two well-made cocktails. studiovoltaire.org/crispin-at-studio-voltaire/

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Los Mochis London City, Liverpool Street

Mexico meets Japan in this ambitious, lively space with views over the City.

Executive chef Leonard Tanyag has brought the unique concept from the vibey Notting Hill original to a bigger audience high above Liverpool Street. Combining vibrant Mexican dishes and ingredients with the delicacy of Japanese cuisine, the comprehensive menu is designed to share and surprise. The tasting menu showcases the best: 10 dishes, from guacamole to enjoy with a mocktail through to a purple yam panna cotta. Highlights include teriyaki duck on crispy rice, sea bass ceviche with shiso-truffle soy; spicy yellowtail maki and the signature trailer park chicken taco (fried chicken, jalapeño BBQ sauce, habanero gochujang with toasted sesame and parsnip chips – genius). The clubby soundtrack, roof terrace, impressive agave selection and late-night snacks attract expense account groups as well as weekend thrill seekers. losmochis.co.uk/lc/london-city

Los Mochis London City

Yasmin, Piccadilly Circus

Rooftop dining with a Middle Eastern flavour

Come for the sunny terrace and jewel box interiors, stay for the sharing plates at chef Tom Cenci’s latest venture at Piccadilly Circus. Inspired by a stint in Istanbul, the menu majors on superior dips, flatbreads and zingy salads and grills. Sesame seed hummus gets a lift with raisins and peanut dressing; whipped sheep’s cheese features hot honey and isot biber (dried chilli pepper). The sumac smoked duck salad with grilled corn is a must order. Pair salmon and olive skewers with smashed cucumber and batata harra potatoes. Signature desserts are the pistachio ice cream sandwich and turkish delight cheesecake. Delicately spiced cocktails work throughout dinner – try Shapash, which blends tequila with chili, watermelon, strawberry and citrus. yasminsoho.com

Yasmin restaurant

July, Fitzrovia

All-day grazing inspired by Alsace

Alsatian-inspired food gets a glow-up in this cute new all-day space on Fitzrovia’s foodie hub, Charlotte Street. Share snacks like deep-fried munster (a mild, soft cheese) or pork and apricot terrine while lingering over a glass of low-intervention wine for lunch or early evening, or book for dinner where the highly seasonal menu might include white asparagus with brown butter; braised sausage with mustard and sauerkraut; rhubarb and custard crêpe. A small, well-curated drinks list features lighter versions of classics like melon negroni and the best Alsatian riesling and pinot gris. july.london

July restaurant

Singapulah, Shaftesbury Avenue

Authentic Singaporean hawker dishes

Londoners and tourists queue for up to 40 minutes at key times to bag a seat at restaurateur Ellen Chew’s celebration of Singaporean food, with beloved suppliers namechecked on the menu (such as fishball supremo DoDo, and Udders ice cream – its durian flavour has a Marmite response). Head here for comforting bowl of noodles, nasi goreng and beef rendang. Singapore laksa is served over mee tai bak – short noodles which make it easy to eat with a spoon (less of a slurpfest!). Snacks and small bites include fried chilli crab bao and kueh pie tee savoury pastries topped with prawns and peanuts, best shared with three or more. The utilitarian space is softened with a pastel colour scheme, colourful ads as artwork with shelves lined with ceramics and products. Signature cocktails and mocktails feature ingredients such as Yeo’s chrysanthemum tea. singapulah.co.uk

A bowl of laksa with prawns served at Singapulah

Morchella, Rosebery Avenue

Mediterranean dishes reimagined in a former bank off Exmouth Market

Light, bright and roomy, this restaurant/wine bar is a new venture from the team behind Perilla. One of its USPs is the individual cutlery drawers in the tables, which house complete table settings – this creates uncluttered tables with more room for food. The menu is modern Mediterranean – salt cod comes in churro form rather than as fritters, on a plate of romesco sauce; panzanella is made with radicchio; and scallops are fluffy with cauliflower mushroom and dripping with buttery juices (you’ll need the pepper dulse focaccia for mopping them up). Spanakopita is reimagined as a neat, ultra-crisp, sausage roll like affair. And there are three desserts, one of which is the lush portokalopita made with crumbled filo pastry. morchelladining.co.uk

Interior of Morchella restaurant in Islington

From The Ashes at Five Points Courtyard, Hackney

BBQ legends Martin Anderson and Curtis Bell have a new home in Five Points Brewing Co’s expansive outdoor area beneath the railway arches. The succinct menu of smoker stars includes crisp beef brisket tacos, legendary ‘nduja doughnuts and brioche buns stuffed with smoked pork, garlic mayo and pickles. Meat-free options are equally excellent – floppy flatbreads doused in zaatar to scoop up sweet squash hummus and grilled hispi cabbage slathered in vegan ‘nduja and tahini yogurt. If you can't decide what to order, the chef's BBQ platter gives a taste of three meats and sides (loaded fries and bacon-adorned lettuce wedges) for £55. fromtheashesbbq.co.uk

A man cooking meat on a smoker at From The Ashes BBQ

Carmel, Fitzrovia

Eastern Med menu in prime central London spot

Small plates and sharing dishes are at their best in this Eastern Med menu from the team behind grill house Berber & Q. Vegetables are lavished with as much love as meat and fish, as apparent in blackened aubergine with tahini, sumac-pickled onion and pomegranate; and braised chickpea, wild spinach, xigalo (a soft cheese from Crete), mint tomato and chilli. A small raw and cured choice includes scallop crudo with a piquant peach gazpacho; flatbreads feature imaginative toppings like asparagus and crab or cod’s roe; and dishes to share include the burnt lemon urfa chicken made glossy and deliciously sticky with pomegranate and mustard jus, as well as generous servings of pasta such as ricotta agnolotti with oregano and tomato butter. A chilled soundtrack, indoor-outdoor design with oversized ferns, low-intervention wines and potent cocktails create a laid-back atmosphere. carmelrestaurant.co.uk

A selection of dishes at Carmel Fitzrovia including burrata, salad and beef short rib

YiQi, Chinatown

Pan Asian with quirky interiors and big flavours

Insta-friendly cocktails and interiors give this Chinatown newbie instant standout, but the quality of the cooking and diverse menu make it more than just social media hype. The menu shows Thai, Malaysian and Chinese influences. Assam sauce – sour and gently hot with tamarind and chilli – features in head-on prawns and scallop starters as well as its signature bamboo tube rice seafood dish. Stir-fried clams are fragrant with soy, oyster sauce and curry leaves; pumpkin king prawns are rich and creamy; skate is spiked with yuzu. Charcoal chicken wings and grilled short rib are best eaten with your hands (gloves are provided) and crab is also brilliantly messy. The abacus wall and clever cocktails (try the quirky Magic Mike) add to the fun. @yiqipanasia

Interiors at YiQi Pan Asian restaurant with wooden panels and three tables

Med Salleh Viet

Friendly Vietnamese street-food style spot

The busy front of house team greets everyone as friends in this café-style Vietnamese near Notting Hill. Sister restaurant to Malaysian Med Salleh, Viet’s menu must-order is its pho. The bone marrow broth is simmered for 18 hours and served from a teapot over raw beef with noodles, beansprouts and chilli, lime and herbs. Lamb rack, king prawn and whole squid – cut at the table – are smoky from the barbecue. Other street food stalwarts include summer rolls with prawns, or veganised with oyster mushrooms; chicken, beef or prawn bun cha; and a refreshing mango salad, as bright and zingy as Viet’s yellow and blue interior. medsalleh.co.uk/med-salleh-viet


Freakscene sushi and robata, Balham

Lively Pan-Asian neighbourhood joint

Chef Scott Hallsworth and Aussie comedian Adam Hills have opened the second outpost of this lively izakaya-style restaurant that’s big on tunes with your tacos, tempura and tataki. Small and neon-lit, its punchy flavours and potent cocktails are great for a gang, while sashimi omakase and a considered wine list with a nod to Scott’s western Australian heritage make it equally suitable as a serious destination or date spot. Edamame are scorched and dressed with sake, lemon and butter; salt-grilled mackerel mochi toasts are a must-order, lemon sole with spicy shiso ponzu speaks to the kitchen’s experience and skills. Extra bonus? Gluten-free and vegan menus. freakscenerestaurants.com


Pollini at Ladbroke hall, Ladbroke Grove

Imaginative Italian in grand, artistic surroundings

An intuitive front of house team, dramatic interior and Italian classics with a twist make it worth a little trek off the beaten track (10 minutes from Ladbroke Grove station). The high-ceilinged room is dominated by a huge light fitting against a monochrome colour scheme. Chef Emanuele Pollini makes childhood favourite lasagne his own by recreating the flavours within ravioli complete with crispy shards to mimic the crunchy topping; seabass crudo is elevated with bottarga; a breaded, on the bone veal chop is doused in a rich chicken and parmesan sauce. A small carton of squacquerone – a delicate, soft cow’s cheese is served with figs, and gelato, particularly nocciola (hazelnut) is as good as you’d eat in Italy. The two- or three- course artist lunch is a good intro at £24/£28* respectively. ladbrokehall.com

A selection of revamped Italian plates on a white table

Florencio, Marylebone

Chef Diego Jacquet has opened a pizzeria near his contemporary Argentinian grill, Zoilo. Pizzas are made from a 48-hour fermented dough and finished with toppings including Buenos Aires’ popular three-cheese muzza style. Options include
El Cuartito topped with chorizo, grilled peppers and jalapeños, and Martita laden with gorgonzola béchamel, courgettes and walnuts. florenciopizza.com

The interiors at Florencio, featuring teal booths and a wine shelf

Med Salleh, Bayswater

Med Salleh Kopitiam brings the flavours of owners Med Pang and Koi Lee’s childhood memories of Malaysian street food. The menu covers Malay, Chinese and Tamil cuisines in a setting that also looks back, paying homage to the 70s household aesthetic that Med and his family grew up with. There’s even a mini grocery corner (kedai runcit) with a variety of snacks. Med’s grandma’s recipe for Hainanese chicken rice is a highlight of the menu and sits alongside dishes such as satay, laksa, beef rendang, char kuey teow (stir-fried noodles) and ais kacang (shaved ice with a selection of toppings including red beans). A buffet breakfast including roti canai and nasi lemak is served each morning. medsalleh.co.uk

Decorated red plate topped with Hainan Malaysian chicken and rice dish with fresh cucumber slices

Solis, Battersea

Solis is the personal product of Ana Gonçalves’ (along with husband Zijun Meng, who together are behind cult favourites TĀ TĀ Eatery and Tou) desire to showcase food from her childhood and challenge the conventional expectations of the steak night. With bold flavour influences from Spain, Portugal, Uruguay and Argentina, Solis is looking to break the mould without breaking the bank. Located right in the heart of Battersea Power Station’s multi-billion-pound restoration and redevelopment, it offers an accessible menu headlined by its signature grilled spatchcock chicken and flat-iron steak, both served with salad, fries and a big side of South American vibrancy. arcadefoodhall.com/solis

Solis owners Ana and Zijun sat at a table both tucking into a plate of cheesecake

Saltine, Highbury

With clean lines and a minimalist interior, Saltine is new to the Highbury Park neighbourhood. Opened by Mat Appleton and Jess Blackstone of Fink’s cafés fame, and with head chef Phil Wood (ex-Spring and St John) at the stove, Saltine has a frequently changing menu, founded on named produce and producers. Expect dishes to look exactly as they are described: veg such as carrots may come whole, skin and all, for example, salad leaves are torn into decent chunks, like in the pumpkin scapece, and chicken with Borlotti beans and spinach has a properly soupy sauce. Desserts include a slab of sticky toffee apple cake that everyone is talking about. saltine.co.uk

Saltine's minimalist decor, including tall leafy plants, exposed brick and an atrium

Juno at Los Mochis, Notting Hill

There are just six coveted seats (and two sittings a night) in a curtained-off corner of Los Mochis in Notting Hill, where chefs Leonard Tanyag and head sushi chef Han serve and explain each of 15 light courses, with helpful hints on how to eat each dish (with your fingers, a spoon or chopsticks). A selection of nigiri features carefully sourced fish, such as kinmedai (snapper), hamachi and blue fin tuna. King crab with ponzu butter and uni (sea urchin) are highlights. There are Mexican touches, too, such as an intense lime aïoli with sea bream and wildflowers, and the dessert options fuse Japanese and Italian ideas. Sake and wine pairings are offered alongside agave and cocktails. losmochis.co.uk/nh/juno-omakase

The plush interior at Juno, a small corner at the Los Mochis restaurant, with caramel-coloured leather bar seats, brown shutters and warm lighting

INÉ by Taku, Hampstead

Sister restaurant to Mayfair’s Taku, this airy, minimalist Hampstead restaurant offers both omakase (14 fish-focussed dishes, plus a dessert) and a la carte. At the eight-seat counter, sushi master chef Meng’s omakase features premium ingredients, including a delicate mussel broth, buttery otoro (tuna belly) with caviar, Carlingford oyster with wasabi cream and ikura (roe), smoked salmon tofu purée, and sashimi, tempura and maki. Head chef Andrew Lim’s contemporary al a carte dishes include a wagyu beef katsu sando and grilled Iberico. While the cooking is at an elevated level, the vibe – with booths and a young team – is refreshingly relaxed. inebytaku.com

Minimalist interior at INÉ, including cream coloured booths, a bonsai tree and a deep red side table

Clap, Knightsbridge

This lively Knightsbridge restaurant is the place to be if you like entertainment in the form of DJs and people-watching with dinner. An international set, familiar with its branches in Beirut, Dubai and Riyadh, laps up the bustle of the open kitchen and sushi bar, which turns out modern Japanese dishes with luxurious touches, such as truffle edamame, a surprising shiitake and sesame salad, hamachi sashimi, otoro and wagyu nigiri, black cod miso and kimchi-spiked lamb rack. Desserts are big on drama, too – the natsu platter is stacked with exotic fruit, matcha cheesecake and mochi. A rooftop bar has views over the city and fascinating light fittings that are made for Instagram. claprestaurant.com

The luxurious, dimly lit interior at Clap restaurant, with a dark wooden furnishings and a ceiling a 'green' ceiling of plants

Stay tuned for more reviews of new restaurants in London

Reviews by Christine Hayes, Lulu Grimes, Helen Salter, Hannah Guinness, Alex Crossley, Esther Clark, Miriam Nice and Marianne Voyle

Photographs: David Cotsworth, Steven Joyce (Lórian), Melisa Coppola (Pollini), Ania-Smelskaya (Sune), Oskar-Proctor (Bistro Freddie), Ben Carpenter (Sparrow Italia), John Carey (Ikoyi), Rob Billington (Singapulah) Tim Atkins (Solis), Giulia Savorelli (Sesta)

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