Isle of Skye cuisine: 10 things we love

Isle of Skye cuisine: 10 things we love

Scotland in miniature

From forested uplands and sheltered sea lochs to the rugged Black Cuillin mountains, Skye is both geographically and ecologically diverse, which means its produce is too. It also ensures that restaurants can offer menus that are low on food miles, with local provenance as a cornerstone.

Hand-dived scallops

Plump and sweet, Skye scallops yield plenty of meat for the size of their shells. Local divers, like James Cameron of Skye Scallop Divers, circumnavigate the island, stopping off at one site before moving on to the next and not returning until the local stocks have been given the chance to replenish themselves. The benefits of hand-diving scallops instead of dredging are many: there's no by-catch, and only mature, well-sized scallops are harvested, which preserves the native ecosystem. For really fresh scallops, try scallop ceviche with a touch of sea salt and lemon – but, frying them in a hot pan with foaming butter and a dash of lemon is also delicious. Or, brush scallops with softened butter and Marmite before cooking for an extra umami hit.

Creel-caught lobsters and langoustines

The waters around Skye are among the most bountiful in the world for shellfish like lobsters and langoustines, plus lesser-known species such as squat lobsters and common prawns. These are typically caught in small creel pots, which – like the hand-diving of scallops – is far less damaging for the seabed than more industrial methods of harvesting.

Lamb

Skye's pastures are not especially green, so a sheep’s diet on the island consists of a range of foods, such as seaweed, draff (spent barley collected as a by-product of distillation) and hay. This gives the meat a unique flavour – the same flavour it would have had a century ago. For a prime cut like a loin, rump or fillet, serve it pink: season with salt and pepper, fry in a heavy-based pan with butter and fresh herbs, then roast in the oven for a couple of minutes before resting. For fattier cuts like belly or flank, put them on a barbecue first before slow-roasting. Any residual jus from the roast can be used for lamb fat potatoes.

Foraged sea flora

Sea herbs and flora form a significant part of the diet of the island’s livestock, but are also transformative ingredients in their own right. Sea arrowgrass, scurvy grass and seaweeds like dulse and sugar kelp are natural partners for seafood and fish, while sea buckthorn has a tropical flavour that's more reminiscent of the Caribbean islands than Scottish highlands.

Whisky

While Talisker is undoubtedly the best-known Skye whisky, there are a number of other local producers making names for themselves, such as the Isle of Raasay (Raasay is a separate island, between Skye and the Scottish mainland) and Torabhaig distilleries. Skye – and island whiskies generally – are characterised by the flavour of peat smoke. Peat, cut with a spade into blocks and dried, was the primary domestic fuel source on Skye for centuries.

Beer

Using the same basic building blocks as whisky – malted barley and fresh mountain spring water – there is a burgeoning craft beer scene emerging on Skye. At the forefront of this is Cuillen Brewery, based in Sligachan at the foot of the Cuillen mountains. It brews a range of traditional and experimental beers influenced by the distinctive character of the island. Think: seaweed IPA and oat stout matured in whisky barrels.

Black pudding

A relative newcomer, Isle of Skye black pudding is peppery, with sweet spices like mace and clove in more modest proportions than some of its counterparts, particularly those from England.

Preserving the seasons

Few places in the UK feel the seasons more keenly than the Scottish islands, with large fluctuations in rainfall and daylight hours through the year. As a result, there's a rich tradition of smoking fresh produce in order to preserve it. Methods vary from place to place, with techniques passed on from one generation to the next. Even the substance burned varies according to what's available locally at any given time of year, from juniper and birch, to peat.

Heather

Every March or April, the unique smell and sight of burning heather is everywhere on Skye. This process is known locally by the Gaelic word "falasgair", and is said to yield a patchwork of heather moors that provide ideal habitats for grouse, game and all manner of native wildlife. This helps sustain the island’s natural larder. Heather can also be used to smoke venison and infuse milk, such as for the restaurant's burnt heather ice cream. Skye heather honey is also excellent, but because of the inhospitable climate, crops are often small.

Where to eat in the Isle of Skye

Edinbane Lodge

Since taking over what was a derelict former hunting lodge in 2017, Skye chef Calum Montgomery has transformed Edinbane Lodge into one of the most talked-about destination dining spots in the highlands. His "Taste of Skye" menu has provenance at its heart (there aren't many chefs who can claim the scallops being served were in the water an hour or two prior), while innovation and technical excellence underscore its execution. edinbanelodge.com

Stein Inn

Purportedly the oldest inn on Skye, the Stein Inn is an excellent example of highland hospitality. Take in a Hebridean sunset with a local beer next to the shore, before settling down to a medley of local seafood in an armchair by a glowing log fire. The pub also boasts a collection of 120 Scottish whiskies. thesteininn.co.uk

MV Seaflower

Hop across the Sound of Raasay (you may even spot a few dolphins and humpback whales) to the almost uninhabited Isle of Rona on the MV Seaflower, a 40-foot catamaran boat. Once there, tuck into a seafood lunch on deck while moored at Rona’s picture-perfect natural harbour. Don’t be surprised if you see the local seals watching on with envy. seaflowerskye.com

Lean to Coffee

This former croft, a few miles from the Skye Bridge, has walls and a ceiling, but no windows or door. So, while you might stay dry, you may be slightly windswept when your food arrives. But, when coupled with the rugged beauty of the views beyond the walls, it's the ideal place to enjoy excellent coffee and outrageously good sourdough toasties. leantocoffee.square.site

Café Cùil

Skye native Clare Coghill returned to the island from Hackney, London – where Cafe Cùil opened in its original form – and set up shop in 2022. In that short time, Cùil’s brunches have become the stuff of local legend: the Lochalsh beef brisket rarebit has emerged as the signature dish. cafecuil.com

Where to stay on the Isle of Skye

Edinbane Lodge

Edinbane Lodge’s six rooms are spacious and luxurious, tastefully decorated with a subtle highland theme. Calum Montgomery’s breakfast menu – laden with local produce and served on gorgeous crockery from the pottery next door – should be enough to rouse you from your deeply comfortable bed.

Doubles from £249, check availability at booking.com or edinbanelodge.com

The Bracken Hide

The Bracken Hide offers 27 sleek en-suite cabins dotted around the hillside just outside Skye’s largest settlement, Portree. Touches of luxury include underfloor heating and expansive windows from which to enjoy panoramic views across Portree harbour.

Hides (sleeps two) from £149, check availability at booking.com or perlehotels.com/brackenhide

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